Cime di Lago Spalmo

Page Type
Sondrio, Italy, Europe
11070 ft / 3374 m
3364 Hits
86.5% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Cime di Lago Spalmo
Created On: May 3, 2011
Last Edited On: Apr 18, 2013


Cima Orientale di Lago Spalmo
Cima Orientale

Group of peaks located across a ridge long 4Km, and enclosed between the "Passo Dosdè" (2824m west) and the "Passo d'Avedo" (3053m east).

This group is part of a chain with a shape of horseshoe, that also hosts mountains as: Corno di Dosdè 3233m, Cima di Saoseo 3263m, Sasso di Conca 3150m and Pizzo di Dosdè 3280m.

All these summits are closed in a semicircle around the "Alpe Dosdè", on the south side of "Val Viola".
It's an imposing massif, the most important in Val Viola, and comprising three main peaks: Cima Viola (also known as Cima Occidentale di Lago Spalmo) 3374m, Cima Settentrionale di Lago Spalmo 3356m, and Cima Orientale di Lago Spalmo 3291m. Minor peak is the Cima d'Avedo 3129m.

The north side, enclosed by towering rocky cliffs, hosts the small glaciers of "Val Viola" and "Dosdè".
The chain is almost invisible from the bottom of "Val d'Avedo", and it faces south with severe vertical walls of rock that hides the "Lago Spalmo" glacial basin.

The summits are very different from each other, and they offer a wide choice of ascents and difficulties.
The normal routes, usually on ice, are located on the north side, while the south side there are some important rocky routes. Even the traverse of the 3 summits, is a very interesting challenge.

The name "Lago Spalmo" is derived from the name "Spalm", which in local dialect means a mixture of milk and water, typical color of the waters of glacial lakes.

Cime Orientale e Settentrionale from Alpe Dosdè.

Cima Viola 3374m

Cima Viola.
Cima Viola

In the past called "Cima Occidentale di Lago Spalmo", is the highest of the massif and the western; lower only of Cima di Piazzi in this part of the Alps.
The most interesting, and with more routes.

From west (normal route) - 550 meters/PD
North wall (Via del Canalone) - 500m/55°/D-
North wall (Via del Seracco) - 500m/TD
North wall (Via Brandanini/Occhi) - 500m/45° to 55°/D
NE ridge - 12m/F
ESE pillar (Via dei Grosini) - 450m/VI°/TD
ESE pillar (Via diretta) - 450m/VI°/ED-
SE wall (Via "Ritorno alle origini) - 500m/A2/TD
SE wall (Via M.E.G.A.) - 500m/VI°/TD+
SE spur - 380m/III°-IV°
SW ridge - 450m/III°

Cima Settentrionale di Lago Spalmo 3356m

The Cima Settentrionale.
Cima Settentrionale

Mountain rarely climbed. Composed of a icey calotte and rocky and steep sides.

SW ridge - 120m/F
NW couloir - PD
NW wall ("Via del Muschio pietrificato") - 350m/TD-
NW wall ("Via del "Vento col Bel Tempo") - 350m/TD-
NW spur (Via "Alla ricerca del Tempo perduto")/i> - 200m/D+
NW spur (Via "Lumière") - 200m/TD-
NNW ridge - 850m/PD
ENE ridge - 200m/III°-IV°
SE wall - 400m/AD

Cima Orientale di Lago Spalmo 3291m

The ski route.
Cima Orientale

Imposing mountain placed between the "Colle di Lago Spalmo" and the "Passo d'Avedo". Very good looking and covered of ice if seen from north.
It's surely the most famous end climbed despite the lowest. The summit is a pyramid hidden from Alpe Dosdè, that overhang with rocky cliffs the Val d'Avedo (south side).

N flank - 900m/PD
E ridge - from Passo d'Avedo/PD
S ridge - 1600m/PD
W ridge - 150m/III+/AD
3 summits traverse - 4km/800m drop/AD
Ski route (very recommended!green line in the photo) - From ref.Federico 1100m/OSA

Huts and Bivouacs

Rifugio "Federico in Dosdè" 2133m
The Refuge is located in Val Viola. It can hosts 25-30 people for the night, open from 20 June to 20 September, is maintained by Adrian Greco known mountaineer and instructor guides.
From Arnoga in 1.30h. Tel.340 4680054

Bivouac "Caldarini" 2556m
The bivouacs is located at the foot of Cima Settentrionale. At the junction between the "Val Dosdè" and the "Val Contone di Dosdè".
9 sleep places. From Arnoga in 2h.

The refuge  Federico .
Refuge "Federico"
The Bivouac  Caldarini .
Bivouac "Caldarini"

Cime di Lago Spalmo

15 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections


Nearby Areas & Ranges Interactive Map Areas & Ranges in Italy


Livigno AlpsAreas & Ranges