Cimon del Cavallo by the SE ridge

Cimon del Cavallo by the SE ridge

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.12965°N / 12.49639°E
Additional Information Route Type: Hiking, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Hiking, short climbing sections up to UIAA II-
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Rating The Tour (By Hiking Standards)

Cimon del cavallo and its marked paths

0. General. From 1300 m to 2251 m, exposition E, W and S. All the time marked. To the crossroads an easy path, then a narrow path over steep grassy slopes. From Cimon dei Furlani some 100 m of a descent, some 50 m of it an up to UIAA II- downclimbing. Then an easy ferrata on top. By the Swiss (SAC) Hiking Scale the rating would be T5 (mostly T3 and T4). Gear (in dry seasons): Only good shoes and poles. For less experienced, belaying is recommended on the descent from Cimon dei Furlani.

1. Effort. 1050 m, 3 h 30 min.

2. Power. 3 - medium. Strength needed to downclimb UIAA II- sections.

3. Psyche. 3 - medium.

4. Orientation. 1 - no difficulties (all the time good marked paths).

The grading system for hiking and scrambling routes is here.

Overview & Getting There

This is perhaps the most beautiful ascent tour on Cimon del Cavallo. Almost 1 hour longer than the normal ascent route which we can all the time see in the valley below us. The ridge part of ascent is very panoramic, in the final part we can also see Cimon del Cavallo itself from the most beautiful side. In spring and early summer the grassy slopes on the tour are abundant of blossoming flowers. Because of an unprotected section, the route is harder than normal ascent routes from other sides. See the main page of Cimon del Cavallo how to get to Piancavallo plateau!

Route Description

On Piancavallo we start the tour behind (on the W side) the football stadium, on some 1300 m. There is also a table with the detailed map. The path goes up the meadow, hits the cart road and continues left to a small quarry which is nowadays arranged for sport climbing. Behind the quarry the path goes uphills. We go through a nice beech forrest, following red marks in a shape of arrows. The path is weak, only higher it gets more easilly visible. Over a rocky step it ascends up and towards right, the continuing ascent in the northern direction already brings us into the lower part of Val Sughet. Over an undulated plateau we continue to the crossroads on some 1700 m. A nice view on Cimon del Cavallo opens. Good 1 h till here.

Cimon del Cavallo from the southOn the 1700 m crossroads

On the crossroads we deter right (Altavia del Rondoi), going by the path which in the NE direction starts ascending the distinct ridge above us. This is the SE ridge of Cimon dei Furlani. We soon gain the broad lower part of the ridge, where from the grassy slopes we have a nice view on the other side, towards the NE.

On the SE ridge of Cimon dei Furlani
On the ridge
On the SE ridge of Cimon dei Furlani
The view towards NE

There the path turns left and in many turns it steeply ascends on Point 1865 m. That is a first distinct elevation in the ridge, but the fear to go on the other side deep down is not justified. The path descends only some 40 meters, the passage by the grassy ridge is already quite narrow.

The dome of Cimon dei Furlani
Cimon dei Furlani

From the notch up towards Cimon dei Furlani we must first overcome the slopes of a very steep, grassy dome. The path is visible, in the grass there are good steps, but some care is still needed, especially if the slopes are wet. We quickly gain altitude and the slope inclination gets less steep. But we are not yet on Cimon dei Furlani. The path follows the ridge towards the right and does one more ascent to the cross on this interesting summit, 2183 m. A great view on Cimon del Cavallo and the deep valley E of its vertical walls opens.

The view from below Cimon dei Furlani
The view from Cimon dei Furlani
On Cimon dei Furlani
On Cimon dei Furlani
Cimon del Cavallo
Cimon del Cavallo from Cimon dei Furlani

From Cimon dei Furlani we need to descend towards the W and later SW. By a grassy and partly rocky slope the path goes steeply down. It is nowhere protected, more and more exposed, at first keeping close to the main ridge. Then the first rocky steps come and some careful downclimbing is needed. The terrain is also crumbly, on many places we need to use hands. Consider if putting your poles in rucksack! The lower we go, the steeper are the passages, finally one 2 meters high rocky step is already in the UIAA II grade, requiring also some power. Below it the route starts crossing towards the right. But we are still not on Forcella dei Furlani. On a few places the route still loses some altitude and only then crosses towards the saddle. There the normal ascent route joins from the left, coming from the upper Val Sughet.

Cimon dei Furlani
Cimon dei Furlani from Forcella Furlani

From Forcella dei Furlani on the narrow path is well protected. It follows a distinct ledge, which is partly wide and comfortable, partly also narrow, but all the time protected by a cable. Going far to the left into the S face of Cimon del Cavallo we might think the path will cross it completely, but reaching a narrow rocky ravine which opens above us, the path turns right up through the ravine. It becomes a steep, quick and fun climb. The climb through the ravine is all the time protected by a steel cable, so this part is an easy ferrata. It exits just a few meters below the summit. By a grassy ridge we soon reach it.

The ledge in Cimon del Cavallo S face
On the ledge

For the descent we have two options: by the protected ravine on Forcella dei Furlani and down into Val Sughet or by the SW ridge on Forcella Palantina and from it left into Val Sughet.

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External Links

Route description in Italian language:



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