Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 39.06550°N / 72.00080°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Expedition
Additional Information Difficulty: 5A Russian Grade
Sign the Climber's Log


Peak Evgenii Korzhenevskoy,
Southern Crest, 5A Russian Grade, V. Tsetlin 1966, Classic

Getting There

The Peak Korzhenevskaya route begins from the place called Poliana Moskvina where the Base Camp is located (4300 m). (Photo) To the BC you can get from Dushanbe (capital city of Tadjikistan) from where you get flight to Djirgital town (50 min)(Photo) or get a 4x4 car drive (8 hours), then you get helicopter flight to the Camp (30 min) or trek there (2-3 days).

If you decide to accept the services of the local provider like (Alp-Navruz or Alp-Mashkov - the same people), get ready to be cheated - there were many cases of this. Anyway, the written agreement is essential with all the conditions clearly marked.

Route Description

So then, from the Base Camp on Poliana Moskvina you follow the marked trek which crosses a glacier, serpentines up to the small pass over the South Spur of Peak Korzhenevskaya, descends to the canyon, crosses small river below the end of another glacier and then climbs up the steep scree slope (40-60°, rockfall possibility) to the flat moraine where Camp I is located (5100 m). 6-8 hours from the Base Camp. (Photo) If you are fit and well acclimatized it is reasonable to continue ascent until another, better location for the Camp I (5300 m), for make shorter the next section of the Route (climbing to the Camp II 6100/6400 m) which is more tough.

The camping site 5300 m is more roomy and comfortable than the 5100 m site. Camp 5300 m is located on the both sides of the wide moraine at the bottom of the not steep glacier step to the third (upper) glacier plateau.

Then, getting to the top of the vast snow field of the glacier plateau, follow the trek (beware of crevasses) to the base of the South West Face of Peak Korzhenevskoy. (Photo) Below the Face, under overhanging rock the intermediate Camp 5800 m, is located. Quite comfortable and protected place for 10 tents maximum. (Photo) From the 5800 site the long traverse begins (fixed ropes) which leads to the small saddle at the base of the South Summit Crest of Peak Korzhenevskaya (6100 m).
Camping site is not good - very small and windy. Maximum 3 medium sized tents can be installed. (Photo) Much better camping site is located at the huge snow field at the altitude of 6400 m. To get there you have to climb
short but difficult rock section (40 m 60-80°, III+, fixed ropes), and follow the not steep ridge to the Camp 6400 m. (Photo)

There are no technical complications nor fixed lines from the Camp II to the Summit - all the way up you walk the ridge using your iceaxe and skipoles (some short sections can be as steep as 50-60°),
but mostly it is quite comfortable part presuming you are fit and acclimatized - the altitude is to be taken the most seriously here. (Photo)

You descent the same way. The distance from Camp II to BC is done normally in one day.

The variant of Peak Korzhenevskaya climbing schedule successfully used by AlexClimb Mountain School.

Day 1 - getting to the Base Camp on the Poliana Moskvina place

Day 2 - acclimatization and placing the Camp I 5300 m, overnight

Day 3 - descent to the BC

Day 4 - day off

Day 5 - walking up and overnight in the Camp I 5300 m

Day 6 - climbing up and placing the Camp II 6400 m, overnight

Day 7 - descent to the BC

Day 8 - day off

Day 9 - day off

Day 10 - walking up and overnight in the Camp I 5300 m

Day 11 - climbing up and overnight in the Camp II 6300 m

Day 12 - Summit Day, descent and overnight in the Camp II 6300

Day 13 - descent to the BC

Essential Gear

All you expeditionary altitude climbing gear including helmet, crampons, long iceaxe, skipoles, harness, ascent and descent devices

Additional info for the Peak Korzhenevskaya route:

Photos from the route
GPS coordinates (.wpt)

External Links

Guided ascent of this route is provided by AlexClimb Mountain School



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