Colchuck Peak Climber's Log

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nitramwerd - Jun 29, 2020 10:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2020

Colchuck North Buttress to Dragontail Peak  Sucess!

Started the hike on a busy Saturday morning at 6:30am. Turned off the trail at around 4.9 miles to get up a pretty mellow scree field to achieve the north ridge up to Colchuck Peak.

After getting up to the ridge there is a good amount of route finding to get the right line. There are definitely some cracks that run to slab, which don't go. I would guess that its about 70% Class 4 and 5 sections of 20-30m of Class 5. Takes approximately 5 hours to get from the trailhead to the summit.

The ridge line was dry and free of now. Some lingering snow to the west of the ridge. The path down to the col between Colchuck and Dragontail is sandy scree, but easy to descend. Encounter some snow on the way up to dragon tail, but after navigating to the ridge it is snow free with only minor scrambling.

Met a group of mountain goats at the top of Dragontail and descended the normal route down. There was some snow on north aspects, but Aasgard pass was free of snow. Beautiful days of Colchuck Lake on the way down.

Colchuck Lake is warm enough to swim in, but maybe a bit cold.

lukewright - Jun 28, 2020 10:26 am Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2020

Colchuck -> Dragontail traverse  Sucess!

Ascended via the glacier, great conditions


cascadescrambler - Aug 10, 2019 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 1986

Long way around  Sucess!

Our climb leader must have been scouting an alternate route, because we went from Colchuck Lake around the west side, camped at about 6000 feet northwest of the peak, and the next day continued diagonally upward to the southwest ridge and up the ridge. Class 2 scramble all the way.


kronshage3 - Mar 18, 2019 6:19 pm Date Climbed: Mar 17, 2019

Via Colchuck Glacier  Sucess!

Did this one as an overnight trip. Hiked in and camped on the far south side of Colchuck Lake. Hike in was super mellow because trail was already broken in to the lake. Woke up early the next morning to catch sunrise along the summit ridge. The snow up the glacier was total garbage. One step would be powder, the next solid ice, the next post holing... Not fun. But still very doable with a good rotating crew to break a trail. Views from the top were stunning. Not a single cloud in the sky and no wind. Glissade down was fun but not great. You were either in deep pow going no where or on solid ice going as fast as a car on the highway. Still... much better than walking down.


chandlerhaberlack - Jul 24, 2018 5:15 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2018

Solo  Sucess!

7 hour 55 minute C2C


huskertriguy - Jul 9, 2018 2:21 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2018

Beautiful Day!  Sucess!

Started from parking lot at 4:30 a.m., when there were actually still some spots available. Good and easy progress to Colchuck Lake.

Did the choose-your-own adventure up the boulderfield to the base of the snow, which at this time was at about 500' above Colchuck Lake. We used ice axe & crampons which certainly made glacier travel safer and more efficient but saw at least one traveler without them. (In fact we only saw 2 other travelers on the glacier all day; the other was a telemark skier.)

From the saddle it was a scramble and routefinding to the summit. We traversed over to the true summit.

We glissaded down much of the glacier with great care. Rock-hopping back down the boulderfield on sore legs was unpleasant and our eagerness to get out of the boulders led to some bushwhacking when we tried to shortcut.

I will not say how long it took us car to car; suffice to say, we did not set any records. But dammit, we summited and it was a great day.


JLuthanen - Jun 11, 2018 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2018

Climbed via the Colchuck Glacier Route  Sucess!

Had the mountain almost to ourselves, which is atypical for the Enchantments. Weather on mountain forecast stated up to .4in of snow potentially up high - attained the saddle between Colchuck and Dragontail via almost snow stepping the whole way up. Clouds started moving in and very light snow, made push for summit and by the time we made it back to our bags in under an hour, we had 1" snow accumulation. Made boulder hopping a little tricker on the way back to saddle, but 2500' glissade out pretty awesome : )

Jake Robinson

Jake Robinson - Jul 9, 2017 11:45 am Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2017

Colchuck Glacier  Sucess!

Fun hike with excellent summit views. Best glissade I've ever done from Colchuck Col all the way down to the lake!


awilsondc - Jun 10, 2017 8:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2017

Colchuck Glacier route  Sucess!

Awesome trip! 4:45 up and 3:07 down. Probably the best glissade I've ever done. Trip report here.

climber46 - Oct 24, 2016 7:01 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2011

via Colchuck Glacier  Sucess!

Climbed Colchuck Peak and Dragontail Peak via Colchuck Glacier route. Colchuck is an awesome summit with amazing views of Rainier, Adams, Glacier Peak, Mt. Baker, and other great Cascade Peaks. Descended via Asgard Pass.


relic - Sep 3, 2016 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2016

South side walk up  Sucess!

Did this while camped in south side basin for a climb of Argonaut. Rather enjoyable summit plateau, looks like goats use the area heavily.


EastKing - Nov 23, 2015 8:44 pm Date Climbed: Mar 20, 2010

Excellent trip!!  Sucess!

Night glissading, Bulger summit. One of the best trip that I have ever had!!


tcingrum - Jun 16, 2015 9:03 am Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2015

Glacier route  Sucess!

Up the glacier to the summit block. Mostly snow free above col.


kevinsa - Jun 14, 2015 6:00 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2015

Colchuck  Sucess!

Came up Colchuck Glacier, scrambled Colchuck, then went over to Dragontail and Little A. Fun climb.


seano - Jul 10, 2014 3:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2014

Traverse from Argonaut  Sucess!

Mostly straightfoward, and way better than the stretch between Sherpa and Argonaut. Descent via boot-ski of the Colchuck glacier. Trip report.


nickmech - May 1, 2014 1:54 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2010

Glacier  Sucess!

Early season, very cloudy, one day trip. Good glisade back to lake.


blueshade - Aug 6, 2013 11:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2013

West Face/SW Ridge - Class 4  Sucess!

Climbed up from the SW corner of Colchuck Lake to the low point on the North Ridge just below Point 6991T. Countoured along the base of the cliffs to the small glacier/small basin just to the side of the SW Ridge. Mostly Class 2 to this point.

After getting on the ridge it is mostly Class 2/3 for the first 1/4-1/3. Afterwards it is a combination of Class 3-4, sometimes with moderate exposure (~40'), crossing back and forth over the ridge as needed to avoid cliff bands. The top 1/3 or so seems to take forever...


Vinny - May 20, 2013 2:24 pm Date Climbed: May 19, 2013

NBC attempt

checked out North Buttress couloir but were stymied by rock step without gear and carrying skis. looks nice enough to return to (without skis).
Settled for Colchuck Gl. and false summit tag. Great day out with Jonah, Annie and Seth.


bedellympian - Apr 8, 2013 9:43 pm Date Climbed: Mar 9, 2013

ski  Sucess!

trip coul was out of shape, luckily i had skis. got this one instead.


tseren - Jan 5, 2013 5:34 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2009

colchuck glacier  Sucess!

climbed the colchuck glacier with one of my best friends, Joe. Joe took a summit nap and a goat came two feet away from stepping on his face. great climb. perfect weather.

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