Corno Nero Normal route

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.91620°N / 7.86270°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering, Ice Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Alpine PD
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach

 

Corno Nero 4322 m Normal route

Corno Nero 4322 m is a mountain belonging to the Pennine Alps, Monte Rosa Massif, and located on the Swiss-Italian watershed, along the line starting from Lyskamm and heading to Punta Gnifetti and Punta Dufour. It forms a small group made up of three "toy Fourthousander" together with Parrotspitze, the highest and the Northernmost, and Ludwigshöhe. Check here the complete list of the 82 alpine Fourthousanders and the 46 minor summits: Club4000. These mountains appear small only when considered from the Lys Glacier side. In fact, there is to be observed that this set of three peaks takes on a completely different and extremely crabby look when viewed from the Valsesia side. Corno Nero opposite sides are totally dissimilar: gentle, brief and snowy the Swiss one, impressive and high the Italian, overlooking Alagna and Val Sesia, falling towards the Piode glacier and the Valsesia with a 700 m high face and part of the so-called majestic "Valsesiana" wall of Monte Rosa.

A windy day on Corno Nero summit
A windy day on the summit of Corno Nero

Getting there

Two different road approachs are possible depending if coming from the Valle di Gressoney (Aosta) or from Val Sesia.

Access via Valle di Gressoney (Aosta Valley) - From the A5 Torino – Aosta Highway, exit to Pont St. Martin and take the Valle di Gressoney, getting to Gressoney St. Jean, Gressoney La Trinité and Staffal. From Staffal take the Cable car to Alpe Gabiet – Passo dei Salati - Indren

Access via Val Sesia (Piedmont) - From the A26 Highway exit to Romagnano Sesia and take the road to Varallo Sesia. Here continue following all the Val Sesia road to Alagna Valsesia. From Alagna Valsesia take the Cable car to Pianalunga - Passo dei Salati – Indren

Access to the Rif. Città di Mantova 3498 m and Rif. Gnifetti 3611 m

From Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna or Gressoney) get the Rif. Città di Mantova in 1 hour and Capanna Gnifetti in 1,30 h. In the lower part, it is a marked path (n. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). Climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes) to the hut. To reach the Capanna Gnifetti from the Rifugio Mantova Hut cross the glacier going up over the E-side of the glacier to the N and at the end on the rocks to the Gnifetti hut. This will take up to 30 minutes longer.

Route Description

Corno Nero Normal route

Difficulty: PD (Alpine scale) Difference in level: 830 m from Capanna Gnifetti - 965 m from Rifugio Mantova

A minor summit in the Monte Rosa group, anyhow the climb is a must for those looking for a simple itinerary on a fine mountain. The climb is rather easy, but involves a full glacier's equipment. Lys Glacier has several crevasses - often hidden in early summer - so it is necessary to cross it by proceeding enroped.

 

Corno Nero / Schwarzhorn (4.322 mtrs)
Climbers on Corno Nero
Corno Nero
A different perspective of Corno Nero

Route description - The approach to Corno Nero starts from either Capanna Gnifetti m. 3611 or Rifugio Mantova m. 3470. From the shelters – Rifugio Mantova or Capanna Gnifetti – gain the starting point of the Lys Glacier, which begins behind Capanna Gnifetti. Enter the glacier and follow it at first diagonally to the left (toward North-East) along a steep ramp, then toward North rising on moderate ice-slopes, never too away from the steep slopes of Piramide Vincent. In some sections the route presents a few passages between wide crevasses. Continue always along the track, usually present in summer, heading to the Colle del Lys. After passing a series of irregular slopes, the itinerary gets the snowy basin below the Balmenhorn at about 4000 m. with the statue of Christ under which it's located the little bivouac. About 100 metres before the Colle del Lys leave the main track and turn right heading to the stunning pyramid of the Corno Nero and getting the base of a steep snow slide (45°). Climb the slope ending nearby the summit and then follow the brief airy summit crest on snow and blocks to the Madonnina on the narrow top. Descent: reversing the route

On top of Corno Nero (4321m), with Mark pointing out the peaks we want to climb
Narrow top of Corno Nero 
As seen from Ludwigshöhe
Climbers on Corno Nero as seen from Ludwigshohe

 

Essential Gear

Rope, helmet, ice-axe, crampons, full glacier gear.

Red Tape

No fees no permits required.

When to climb

Best months are June, July, August and September. Ski-mountaineering: from the end of March to the end of May

Punta Gnifetti map

Huts

- Rifugio Città di Mantova m. 3470

Situation: Garstelet Glacier Open: from June to September Guardian: Guide di Gressoney Size: 85 persons Winter shelter: 15 persons Phone: +39-0163-78150 / Mobile: +393470802910

Lyskamm Traverse
 Capanna Gnifetti
Rifugio Mantova
Rifugio Mantova

 

- Capanna Gnifetti m. 3611

Situation: Garstelet Glacier Open: from February to April and from June to September Size: 176 persons Winter shelter: 4 persons E-mail: info@rifugimonterosa.it

Meteo

Meteo Valle d'Aosta

Meteo Piemonte

Guidebooks and maps

"Il grande libro dei 4000 - Vie normali e classiche" by Marco Romelli, Valentino Cividini - Idea Montagna Editore, 2015

“Monte Rosa” by Gino Buscaini - Guida dei Monti d'Italia C.A.I.-T.C.I.

"4000er Tourenfuhrer" by Richard Goedeke

New guidebook Il grande libro dei 4000
New guidebook Il grande libro dei 4000
Monte Rosa guidebook
Monte Rosa guidebook
4000 des Alpes (Alpine Fourthousanders) Guidebook
4000 des Alpes (Alpine Fourthousanders) Guidebook


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.