Second summit for Cotopaxi (first time in Nov 2012, normal route, summit in 6.5 hrs, good weather and great views). This time, over concerns about the crevasses and seracs - and also the expedition size - our expedition (23 climbers, 12 guides) took the Rompecorazones route... great weather, cold but no wind, almost a full moon, climbed until the "Pared" without headlamps, great view of the other mountains. Clouded up just before the summit, so no view this time. In the end we descended via the normal route, turns out there are now two sections with metal ladders (in Nov 2012, there were no ladders) and several crevasses to jump across. Looking forward to to try the south face in a few weeks...
we did not climb the normal route, instead traversed to the right and went straight up to meet the normal route after the crevasses. it was steep and tiring, but a much safer route. i'm not positive if it is the "heartbreaker route" or not.
Altitude crazed dream
Winds 30-40 mph sustained with some gusts 60 mph. Took a route on the far left side of the icefall using a running belay. Two days earlier a climber was killed by a serac lower on the route.
Started from the hut at 01:00 with Simon West and our guide Eddison. Speed was good but I got tired 2/3 of the way up. Found some reserves and made it to the top at 6:00 to enjoy the sunrise. Spent only 2 hours for the decent. The seracs were awesome!
Fantastic summit climb from the refuge with two buddies and two guides!
Took off at 1am, made the summit by 5:30am. Clear skies and 80% moon- barely had to use my headlamp.
Huge avalanche above Yanasacha two hours into the climb, but thankfully no one was in the area.
Last hour up was cold and relentless, but the views of Antisana, Cayambe, Chimborazo, and the crater were "vale la pena". Down by 6:45am for a fantastic morning.
More difficult then expected after climbing near or above 5000m four times before this mountain. Amazing view of the avenue of volcanoes, you can see a ridiculous amount of volcanoes on a clear summit morning! =)
Lame we had to hire a guide (Ecuador mountaineering sucks for this law now), but Chris and I made it to the summit in foul weather in about 6 hours. Some others raced up and paid for it with altitude sickness. The crevasse was cool and the route was pretty straight-forward. Nice to finally get the summit.
Pick up a guide for my girlfriend and to let me solo up by myself. Brought radios to keep contact with the guide and another guide at refuge. Last to leave hoping to follow the tracks up, at 1am. But, caught everyone before the crevasses. Found my way up in very stormy conditions, snow blowing sideways. Very sketchy trail, I am glad I prepared for this. Made it down before 6am.
Did it all during the dark. No fun without the sunrise.
Cabanas Agama 4.000m - Camp Cotopaxi Cara Sur 4.780m
from Camp Cotopaxi Cara Sur up to the beginning of the glacier ~5.060m; turned around because of havy snowfall and fog :/
Cold but made it...amazing
Zero wind, light snow for half hour at 17,500 ft and cloudy summit. Left refuge at 0015h and reached the summit with my fiancé and guide Diego at 0645h. Some crevasses' snow bridges looked a bit sketchy in the daylight, as we'll as some of the overhanging seracs. Snow began falling steadily as we were almost at the refuge around 0930h.
Climbed with my friend Pedro from the car park. We left at 1am and reached the summit at 7am. It was windy and summit was in clouds but it was an amazing climb.
what an incredible mountain! summitted with Joe Miller after a cold, windy climb. no visibility on the summit. would love to go back and climb again in order to see the crater, etc. 10 hours from the high base camp to summit and back.
One of the worst seasons in Ecuador for climbing, with bad weather everywhere, but we were lucky to try to summit in a clear day, although windy all the time.
Very intense weather, turned back at 5500 feet. Would love to try again some day.
My first mountain attempt with the aid of crampons and ice axe was not a successful one. Acclimating with Rucu Pichincha, Guagua Pichincha, and Iliniza Norte wasn't quite enough to get me ready for Cotopaxi. I turned around still in the dark at 17,400 ft. I never developed a headache on the climb it hit me later when back at the refuge.
Some fresh snowfall and wind made a few short traverses a pain, but not too bad.
Stayed in the refugio which was completely full. Some people had to sleep on the tables and benches downstairs. The wind was severe. Walking and standing were impossible at some points. Our group of 3 was the only group to get to the top that day. We started at 1:00 a.m., got to the top by 6:00 and returned at 9:30. Everything on us became covered in a thick layer of ice. We could only spend about 5 minutes on the summit. Not much of a view. The best part of the trip was meeting Erik Weihenmayer and the Soldiers to Summits team. First-class group and organization.
With Murad and Mike. No acclimatization - summited 57 hours after landing in Quito. The route was quite a bit different this time - primarily more icy, weather was better this time.