Couloir des Doigts and Eperon

Page Type
Route
Location:
Valais, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Ice and Rock climb
Time Required:
One to two days
Difficulty:
III/AD +

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Couloir des Doigts and Eperon
Created On: Mar 5, 2004
Last Edited On: Mar 16, 2004

Approach


Start point : Bergerie de Soi d'En Haut (sheep pen) : bivouak
From Monthey go to Val d'Illiez, 950 m. 300 m after the church on the street to Champery take left (direction "Play") go down to the valley bottom and cross the river Vieze. The street climbs to "La Meuraye". In northern direction, after 800 meters, leave the tar and take the trail to "Les Majis" 1420 m. If you have an allroad car you can climb 8 km higher to Soi d'En Haut, 1864 m (rock fall often cuts the trail).


Route Description


From the sheep pen, walk down to the little collar located between Signal de Soi and the bulk of the Fortress of the Dents du Midi. The path follows the west side below the Glacier of Soi and crosses many water streams. After 1 hour, you reach the lonely Lake of Soi, 2247 m. In S and SW direction, you reach the side morraine (1 h 30). Climb the avalanche cone and cross 2 rimayes (sometimes delicate). follow the couloir des Doigts (45 -50°). I recommend to come up before sun rise (ice and rock fall). 3 - 4 h from Soi d'En Haut. Climb the Eperon half a way (loose rocks), traverse and reach the summit of Haute Cime near the cross. (4 - 6 h from Soi)
I recommend to descent over Susanfe Hut.


When to climb


Spring is the best time : the couloir must have drained the snow : a deep channel is then visible in the snow. The weather must be relative cold (0°). A snow covered Eperon helps to pass the loose rocks joined by the frost.


Essential Gear


Complete gear for a mixed rock and ice climb.

First Ascent


Couloir des Doigts : O. Gorman, E. Joris, C. Oberhauser 23/8/1902
Eperon : F. Coquoz, J-P Revaz 19/9/1895


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