Traverse of the Dents du Midi

Overview

The Dents du Midi traverse is a magnificent route very long by varied. A good land knowledge is necessary to allow a fast advance.

Time for the complete traverse : 15 hours...

Approach

1) For the usual traverse E - W (Cime de l'Est to Haute Cime), the start point is Salanfe Hut.

To Salanfe Hut :
From Van d'en Haut, a hamlet situated just above the village of Salvan, 1 h 30.
From Salvan, 3 h 10.
To Salvan : see Dents du Midi main page

2) For the traverse W - E (Haute Cime to Cime de l'Est), the start point is Susanfe Hut.

To Susanfe Hut : see Dents du Midi main page

Route Description

1) E - W TRAVERSE

Salanfe Hut - Plan Névé - Cime de l'Est (normal route or Rambert couloir) - Back to Cime de l'Est collar - E ridge to Fortress -Traverse of Fortress and Cathedral - Descent of SW ridge of Cathedral - Rope down (5 lengh) to Soi Window - Traverse of the Spur - Dent Jaune - Normal route down - Doigt de Salanfe (SE face) - Over Finger breach and Spur to Haute Cime - COllar of Susanfe - Salanfe Hut.

2) W - E TRAVERSE (more difficult than E to W)

Susanfe Hut - Hime Cime, normal route - Down to Finger Breach over Eperon - Up to Doigt de Salanfe, Doigt de Champéry - SE face down - Flotron route to Dent Jaune - Traverse of the Spurs - SW ridge to Cathedral - Traverse Cathedral/Fortress - E ridge to Fortress - W ridge, normal route to Cime de l'Est - Back to Cime de l'Est Collar - Plan Névé - Susanfe Hut

Essential Gear

50 meters rope

History

-First E - W traverse : W. Bigler and E. Weber 25/6/1925

-First winter traverse : J. Pochon and F. Bertoud 1974

-First solo winter traverse : J. P. Es-Borrat 1974

-Fastest traverse : Fafien Avanthay (1938) in 5 h 45 from Cime de l'Est to Haute Cime

-First W - E traverse (but not direct) : J.P. Farrar, P.L. Délez and Maquignaz, summer 1893