Croda di Cengles - Tschenglser Hochwand SW Normal route

Page Type
Route
Location:
Bolzano Alto Adige, Italy, Europe
Route Type:
Mountaineering
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Alpine F

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Croda di Cengles - Tschenglser Hochwand SW Normal route
Created On: Aug 11, 2015
Last Edited On: Feb 25, 2018

Overview


Croda di Cengles Normal route


Croda di Cengles - Tschenglser Hochwand m. 3375 is a massive peak belonging to Ortler Alps Group. It's the northernmost last important summit located in Vertana-Angelo subgroup and occupies a particular position, being the point of convergence of three valleys: Cengles Valley to the North, Zai Valley to the South and Razoi Valley to the West. In reason of its situation the summit offers wide views over the major peaks of the group, as Ortles and Grand Zebrù just in front towards North and over Angelo and Vertana.

Thin cloud over Gran Zebrù and Ortles
Scenery on the approach path: a thin cloud over Gran Zebrù and Ortles

Croda di Cengles is frequently climbed; in addition of the two "vie ferrate", on the South side, the summit is also often climbed along the Normal route rising from Rifugio Serristor, an easy scramble following at first a steep gully, then the fine and panoramic South West ridge.

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Serristori shelter and Zai Lake
Rifugio Serristori and Lago di Zai
Croda di Cengles - Tschenglser Hochwand
Croda di Cengles - Tschenglser Hochwand

Getting There

The road approach is from Bolzano. The starting village to climb is Solda.

- from the Autobrennero exit Bolzano South and follow the road to Merano and Valle Venosta. Follow the Val Venosta road as far as the fork to Stelvio Pass. Here leave the main Val Venosta road and turn to left, taking the road to Stelvio Pass and then to Solda.

Walking approach

Kanzel / Pulpito (2350m)
Kanzel / Pulpito (2350m)

From Solda m. 1861 follow the path n. 5 rising along the Valle di Zai, reaching Prati di Zai (Zaywies) and Piano dei Laghetti (Seeboden), then the Serristori hut (2,30 hours from Solda). A faster approach is possible from Pulpito-Kanzel Rest m. 2350, the upper station of Pulpito-Kanzel chairlift starting from Solda, along the path n. 12a, joining the upper section of the path n. 5 (1 hour and half).

Route Description

Route report

Difficulty: the route is essentialy a walk in its first section, then an easy scramble when climbed in summer condition.
May be graded Alpine F in last spring or early summer, when it becomes a bit more difficult, requiring the use of crampons and axe

Difference in level: 654 m. from Rifugio Serristori m. 2721

Exposure: South-West

Time required: 2,30 hours for the ascent, about 2 hours for the descent

Angelo Grande and Vertana from Zai little lakes
Angelo Grande and Vertana from Zai little lakes


From Serristori - Dusseldorfer Hutte m. 2721 take the path n. 5 to Passo di Zai, crossing the wonderful basin dominated by the majestic Cima Vertana, Angelo Grande, Croda del Forno and Angelo Piccolo and reaching a fork near a small lake m. 2886. Leave the main path to Passo di Zai and turn to left (yellow marks), rising on a steep scree and reaching the base of the rocks (signpost).

Croda di Cengles routes signboard at the start of climbing
Croda di Cengles routes signboard at the start of climbing
Early morning approach, Croda di Cengles
Early morning approach, Croda di Cengles











Follow the signpost "Normalweg" (red marks), heading to the left and entering a steep gully of debris (snow in early season). Climb the gully, getting to a saddle at the bottom of the SW ridge.

View to Ortles from Croda di Cengles
View to Ortles from the saddle below SW ridge
Up Croda di Cengles (Tschenglser Hochwand) Normal route
Up Croda di Cengles Normal route












Turn to right, climbing the easy and large ridge - some steps are equipped by iron chains - getting to the summit cross. Summit book. The view is wonderful!

Croda di Cengles summit ridge
Croda di Cengles summit ridge
Summit of Croda di Cengles - Tschenglser Hochwand
Summit of Croda di Cengles - Tschenglser Hochwand













Descent: reversing the route

Essential Gear

High mountain gear. In presence of snow and ice, possible in early season, crampons and an axe are reccomended.

Red Tape

Croda di Cengles annotated panorama
Croda di Cengles annotated panorama


No fees no permits required. Croda di Cengles is situated inside Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio, one of the hystorical national parks in Italy, belonging to the provinces of Trento, Bolzano and Sondrio. Free camping is not allowed and fires are forbidden. The whole fauna and flora are protected.

Ortles group annotated seen from Valle Zai
Ortles group annotated seen from Valle Zai

Hut


Serristori Hut and Gran Zebrù
Rifugio Serristori and Gran Zebrù

- Rifugio Serristori 2721 m.

Phone:+39 333 2859740 Mob.
E-Mail: info@duesseldorferhuette.com
The hut was built in 1892 by the Düsseldorf section of the DAV. After the First World War the refuge passed to the CAI and until recently was owned by the Mailand section. It has been administered since 2010 by the Autonomous Province of Bolzano - Alto Adige. The refuge is managed by more than 4 generations by the family Reinstadler.
The hut is located in a wonderful situation near the largest one amongst Zay Lakes, just at foot of Angelo Grande and Cima Vertana. Just in front of the shelter rise the majestic summits of Gran Zebrù and Ortles.

Cows playing along Serristori hut approach path
Cows playing along Serristori hut approach path




Approach to Rifugio Serristori - From Solda m. 1861 follow the path n. 5 rising along the Valle di Zai, reaching Prati di Zai (Zaywies) and Piano dei Laghetti (Seeboden), then the hut (2,30 hours from Solda). A faster approach is possible from Kanzel Rest m. 2350, the upper station of Pulpito-Kanzel chairlift starting from Solda, along the path n. 12a, joining the upper section of the path n. 5 (1 hour and half).

Season

Best months are June, July, August and September.

Guidebooks and maps

Ortles-Cevedale Guidebook
Prestigiosi Tremila del Sud Tirolo - Guidebook
Ortles-Cevedale map

"Ortles-Cevedale" by Gino Buscaini - CAI TCI
“Prestigiosi Tremila del Sud Tirolo” by Hanspaul Menara – Athesia ed
“Alto Adige Occidentale” Guida alpinistica escursionistica by Achille Gadler – Panorama ed.

Meteo

METEO PROVINCIA BOLZANO ALTO-ADIGE