Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 14 june 2004
Together with my friend Jan we reached the summit on 14 june 04. There where very strong winds on the summit and the summit ridge. Several times the wind knocked us down and we had to lay down on the ridge. We only stayed 1 minute on the summit because of the winds. We where the only two that summited that day.
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 5,2004
15 days up 2 down A great trip with 5 climbers from across the USA.Good weather conditions and good company every day on the mountain.Smoke from forest fires at 14,000 camp only dark spot of whole trip.
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 26th 2004
First summit attempt had to be cancelled 90m below the summit due to extremely strong winds on the summit ridge. Summitted in perfect weather after a couple of days of resting ang waiting for the right moment to sneak on the top.
Night temperatures in high camp were around -20 C and due to an unusually warm june the lower Kahiltna Glacier was badly crevassed when we descended.
Hint: Prepare to assemble some sort of brake system to your sled for the descent so that it does not slide on your heels. Remember to rig it reasonably so that you will not hurt yourself badly in case of a severe crevasse fall!
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 26, 2004
I had great time. Best part - 16 Ridge. Made it to the summit in 12 days, 2 days down, with all fingers and toes intact. We were pretty lucky with weather, bad weather days were our rest days anyway. I will post a trip report soon.
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 3 june - 21 july 2003
We summited on the 19th of july in breathtaking good weather after being tent bound in Genet Basin for over a week in a rare and powerful summer storm. Me and two of my friends skied down from the summit in the most beautiful sunset I have ever experienced. Success for our norwegian/swedish expedition !
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 12, 2003
Frequent storms in early June concentrated traffic into some tight weather windows. Over 100 climbers attempted the fixed ropes in deteriorating conditions on Sunday, June 8. The parties that made it to 17,200 hunkered down until Thursday June 12 which was beautiful - warm(ish), low wind, spectacular visibility. Very good success rate on that day. We left 17,200 at 1 PM Friday and went all the way through to 7,200 base camp at 5:00 AM Saturday.
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 10th June 2002
This was a real experience. First attempt at June 7th, did not work out because of real strong storm at high altitudes. We went back to Medical Camp.
At June 10th I made it, strong storm again, white out and real low temperature at the summit, my new lithium batteries where only able to take 2 pictures.
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: Friday 29th June 2001
Via the West Buttress route. We were so fortunate to climb in June with great weather throughout, the 16 days were absolutely fantastic, a real experience of a lifetime. The scenery was totally amazing, far far better than you can ever imagine it could be.
Even though this is the easiest route on the mountain, it's very important to train hard and be in super shape for the climb. The sled hauling early on can be dreadful, an exhausting week pulling your sled around the glacier. A good training technique for this is to drag a tyre around at home. Once you get to 14200 ft, the route is magnificent and the ridge leading to 17k is breath taking. The earlier you get to 17k, the more days you'll have to wait for a summit opportunity. Good luck...
asmrz - Nov 15, 2002 9:34 pm Date Climbed: May 11, 1983
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 1983
It took the six of us from Southern California 11 days to climb the big one in May 1983. We had superb conditions with 9 out of 11 days clear, with temperatures down to -37 F. Took 11 days RT from Kahiltna Glacier to the top and back and four days of traveling from/to Los Angeles.
There were 25 people on the mountain, but we were the only US party.
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 2001
This mountain should not be underestimated, especially if it is your first big climb. The wildcard will be the weather if you are physically prepared. We were turned back at Denali Pass by 100 mph winds adn closing weather. I have many pictures on my web site at www.alanarnette.com
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 16- may-2000
It took us 13 days to get up this beautiful but cold and dangerous mountain. Check out the 7 summits site for a complete tripreport and all the info you need. Also send Denali eCards.
Always rope up as there are too many hidden crevasses. Enjoy the climbing itself, don't focus on the summit only. Shield yourself from the extreme cold and you will find yourself on one of the most beautiful places on earth.
Gilbert - Jul 28, 2004 5:56 am
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 14 june 2004Together with my friend Jan we reached the summit on 14 june 04. There where very strong winds on the summit and the summit ridge. Several times the wind knocked us down and we had to lay down on the ridge. We only stayed 1 minute on the summit because of the winds. We where the only two that summited that day.
Beautiful mountain!
Russell - Jul 24, 2004 4:11 pm
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 5,200415 days up 2 down A great trip with 5 climbers from across the USA.Good weather conditions and good company every day on the mountain.Smoke from forest fires at 14,000 camp only dark spot of whole trip.
Samuli Mansikka - Jul 6, 2004 3:49 pm
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 26th 2004First summit attempt had to be cancelled 90m below the summit due to extremely strong winds on the summit ridge. Summitted in perfect weather after a couple of days of resting ang waiting for the right moment to sneak on the top.
Night temperatures in high camp were around -20 C and due to an unusually warm june the lower Kahiltna Glacier was badly crevassed when we descended.
Hint: Prepare to assemble some sort of brake system to your sled for the descent so that it does not slide on your heels. Remember to rig it reasonably so that you will not hurt yourself badly in case of a severe crevasse fall!
bobpickering - Jun 7, 2004 10:37 pm
Route Climbed: West Rib Date Climbed: June 19, 1995Please see my trip report.
kovarpa - Jun 4, 2004 12:25 am
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 26, 2004I had great time. Best part - 16 Ridge. Made it to the summit in 12 days, 2 days down, with all fingers and toes intact. We were pretty lucky with weather, bad weather days were our rest days anyway. I will post a trip report soon.
meepers - Dec 19, 2003 3:40 pm
Route Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: May 2003Great mountain
We had bad weather and worse luck, but lived to climb another day, and will return
grynning - Oct 3, 2003 6:37 pm
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 3 june - 21 july 2003We summited on the 19th of july in breathtaking good weather after being tent bound in Genet Basin for over a week in a rare and powerful summer storm. Me and two of my friends skied down from the summit in the most beautiful sunset I have ever experienced. Success for our norwegian/swedish expedition !
mickymac1 - Oct 1, 2003 1:35 pm
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 6/01Team summitted in 12 days!
7summits - Sep 6, 2003 9:37 am
Route Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: 22 june 2003the 2nd time up this beautiful mountain, this time in 11 days from Talkeetna.
See pics on the denali pages on 7summits.com
dabender - Jun 16, 2003 10:04 pm
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 12, 2003Frequent storms in early June concentrated traffic into some tight weather windows. Over 100 climbers attempted the fixed ropes in deteriorating conditions on Sunday, June 8. The parties that made it to 17,200 hunkered down until Thursday June 12 which was beautiful - warm(ish), low wind, spectacular visibility. Very good success rate on that day. We left 17,200 at 1 PM Friday and went all the way through to 7,200 base camp at 5:00 AM Saturday.
Pencil Pusher - Mar 3, 2003 2:21 pm
Route Climbed: Up the Butt Date Climbed: June 28, 2002The trip of a lifetime. Ginger was the resident-mountain-hottie.
Gernot - Jan 13, 2003 4:34 am
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 10th June 2002This was a real experience. First attempt at June 7th, did not work out because of real strong storm at high altitudes. We went back to Medical Camp.
At June 10th I made it, strong storm again, white out and real low temperature at the summit, my new lithium batteries where only able to take 2 pictures.
richardpattison - Nov 21, 2002 6:50 am
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: Friday 29th June 2001Via the West Buttress route. We were so fortunate to climb in June with great weather throughout, the 16 days were absolutely fantastic, a real experience of a lifetime. The scenery was totally amazing, far far better than you can ever imagine it could be.
Even though this is the easiest route on the mountain, it's very important to train hard and be in super shape for the climb. The sled hauling early on can be dreadful, an exhausting week pulling your sled around the glacier. A good training technique for this is to drag a tyre around at home. Once you get to 14200 ft, the route is magnificent and the ridge leading to 17k is breath taking. The earlier you get to 17k, the more days you'll have to wait for a summit opportunity. Good luck...
asmrz - Nov 15, 2002 9:34 pm Date Climbed: May 11, 1983
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 1983It took the six of us from Southern California 11 days to climb the big one in May 1983. We had superb conditions with 9 out of 11 days clear, with temperatures down to -37 F. Took 11 days RT from Kahiltna Glacier to the top and back and four days of traveling from/to Los Angeles.
There were 25 people on the mountain, but we were the only US party.
Ascending Path - Oct 31, 2002 2:05 pm
Route Climbed: The W. Butt Date Climbed: '97,'98, '00,'01,'02What an amazing mountain!
We have guided this peak 8 times.
Please visit our website for more info:
www.theascendingpath.com
Alan Arnette - Aug 1, 2001 9:49 am
Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 2001This mountain should not be underestimated, especially if it is your first big climb. The wildcard will be the weather if you are physically prepared. We were turned back at Denali Pass by 100 mph winds adn closing weather. I have many pictures on my web site at www.alanarnette.com
7summits - Mar 30, 2001 2:32 am
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 16- may-2000It took us 13 days to get up this beautiful but cold and dangerous mountain. Check out the 7 summits site for a complete tripreport and all the info you need. Also send Denali eCards.
Always rope up as there are too many hidden crevasses. Enjoy the climbing itself, don't focus on the summit only. Shield yourself from the extreme cold and you will find yourself on one of the most beautiful places on earth.
Keep climbing,
Harry
7 summits.com