Soloed Cassine do not do this ! it is not worh ypou life . ok now that the wrning is over . I havev no idea why i soled that ridge it is not easy or even fun just pain hard climbing and a dangerous aproach . Ski in then attach skis yto yourvpav ck this becomes a PITA on the route . c capmp out around 16,00 ther isa small ledge and a incdrible view . climband i mean climb o\n mixed ground that is very steep I am guess 60 degreess plus in places . . when you get up to about 18,000 stop and lokok down and ask your self why you did that and check your sanity Therest of the route is seemingly easy after your adventure on a tough mixed route
Now you area bout to meet every one else as if you are sumiting so is everyones else who isabove 16 K on the peak at least on the west side of the peak If you ant go down west buttress or if you are a real;l good skier i am not ski down it A faster way dwon i liked much better asi could get food anda bigger tent left at the 14,300 ft Enjot a good meal take phots taplk rest up wait for a good day if you haveto then ski down to "Kahtina Intenational z" ie base camp and where you startd from look up and be in awe of this astound peak promise yoursel to comeback if youhave time go take asire if possible in the park and just take itall in hear wolves and see grizzlies and eagals soar just beond words ! Rick
Summited solo on the 4th of July, entire trip took 20 days plus 2 summit attempts. Took a nasty spill coming down from Denali Pass on the first attempt. But persistence pays off baby!!
12 days out with a couple of friends. The DIY aspect of this climb made it more personally fulfilling than my later climb of Cho Oyu.
Enjoyed this climb, even after spending 6 days at 14,000 foot camp due to bad weather. In a party of 5 who were successful, although it get a little gritty at the end there. Mother nature came to the rescue and the high winds died down allowing us to push to the summit.
Weather was deteriorating as we walked off the summit, but got some great views from the summit.
Summited with a private RMI group led by John Race. Had my 18th birthday while stormed in at 14,000.
It took me 12 days to get to the summit because of two days of acclimatization at 15,000 feet and two days waiting at 17,000 for a better summit weather day. I have reached the summit on May 25, 2000. Solo climb.
Awesome, A different planet. Our Igloo at 14,200 feet made all the difference. no flapping tent! Summit was an amazing view...
All 13 people in Dave Hahn's RMI group summited. The guides where great and the weather was really good.
After fourteen days of ascending the West Buttress our expedition, Three High Climbers, reached the summit at 10:18 PM. We were the only group of the day to have somewhat clear skies, for at least a few thousand feet, while on the summit. I would estimate that around 50 people summitted on the 14th. We did not have to wait at 14K for good weather as long as many of the groups did. Thanks to Pavel and Kris for hooking us up with some extra fuel at 14K before they descended!
After spending 9 hard nights enduring a hard Denali storm at 17000'. The weather broke giving us a zero-visibility light-wind day which was good enough to summit. After one more night at 17, we began the descent which was mostly uneventful. Of course there were awesome views when the clouds parted briefly and of course there was immense discomfort while carrying 60lbs down the fixed lines. We gave away 7 days worth of food at 14 camp then flew off the mountain a few days later.
Having only one day of good weather in the forecast, instead of moving the camp to 17K I decided to go solo from 14K to the summit. I started late, at 2 PM, and summited at 12:45 AM, then got back to the camp at 5 AM - 15 hours round-trip. It was suppose to be the acclimatization climb before doing West Rib, but due to many days of bad weatherit was the only climb I did.
It's a great mountain and I hope to return there some day.
Third try in seven years. Climbed with my brother Tony from 14k camp to summit and back in one day - very exhuasting. Beautiful views and weather until the summit - a total whiteout. Priceless life lessons learned on this mountain. Had the privelidge of climbing with two fantastic members and climbers family and friends - thanks Tony and John.
Awesome climb - with Tauru Chaw, Taylor Woodward, and Dave. Happy to have made the summit on my first Alaska Range trip. Place is f*ucking AWESOME.
Spent 12 days but did not make the summit. Quite a slog!
Guiding on this incredible mountain has tought me the most valuable lesson I've ever learned; humility...
Summits in 2003 and '04. Looking forward to more good times on Denali, as soon as Himalayan trips give me a break.
Spent 12 days on the route. Nearly got wiped out by a massive ice avalanche in the NE Fork of the Kahiltna (our tent was flattened by the wind blast). We summitted in perfect weather with absolutely no wind on the summit!
Climbed the West Buttress route with two friends and summitted on our second attempt. We enjoyed terrific weather almost the whole time on the mountain. Feet killed after coming all the way out from 17,000 in two days. Unfortunately two climbers, twin brothers, fell to their death on Denali Pass a week before we climbed it.
Great climg, with Jagged Globe abd Alaskan Guides, beautiful summit day, but we had to wait for it! Alistair Sutcliffe.
20 days round trip from the landing site below Mount Hunter. After our summit day, we descended from our high camp just below the "Rock Step" on the West Rib,at 16,200 ft., down to the West Buttress Route at "Windy Corner", and followed the West Buttress route back to the landing site.