We had bad weather initially until our 3rd day. Then from camp 1 to high camp, nothing but relatively great weather. Couple of cold windy days in high camp, but on summit day, the winds died down. Denali Pass all the way to the summit was extremely hot. Climbed mostly with base layer top and soft shell pants. Our descent was horrendous though as the snow had the consistency of oatmeal and the later half of the day. Lots of open crevasses.
All 3 members of Team Wac(ko) reached the summit via the West Buttress on Friday the 19th. We hit the weather windows just right, taking only 1 unplanned rest/weather day. Much thanks to my team members Al and Dan (who just happens to be my son)!
First time on Denali. Got up to 16,300 on the Upper West Rib and put in an awesome perch at the bergschrund. Were supposed to take a rest day and then go for the summit, but I never got any higher. Developed a torn tendon or muscle under my ribs caused pain when breathing deeply. We waited it out 4 days but we descended when we realized it just wasn't going to get better. Major bummer is an understatement. I'll be back...
Climbed two long ice routes (NF of West Kahiltna Peak and the West Butt Prow) with Brent before going up the Rib Cut-off from 14k to the summit on day nine as a training climb (19 hours RT). Unfortunately, the next day we assisted the NPS rangers with the body recovery of two fallen climbers. Deteriorating conditions (and perhaps lack of heart) meant that we never got a chance to do what we came to do. Maybe some other time.
Other plans fell apart so I changed my objective around to the West Buttress. I ended up taking 12 days total KIA to KIA.
Was I the only member of Kiefer and Haliku's group who threw up on the mountain? (Talkeetna doesn't count) I still can't believe how fast Rush got me the throw up bag. He definately saved the tent.
Great day on the summit, no wind, pretty warm!
Part of the excellent group from Colorado with Kiefer, Haliku, etc. Got sick at 14k camp, and tried to go higher, but realized it wasn't meant to be. After that my mind/body weren't in it, and I went down with some Mexicans and got drunk at base camp. Still a great trip with great partners...will have to come back.
Part of the expedition with Haliku and Co.
Absolutely beautiful weather! Could NOT have asked for better conditions.
Team Summit Bound (Kiefer, media dude, astrobassman, cheeseburgler, rush and myself) put four of the six members on the summit late that day. What views! The summit ridge was windless and beautiful.
Chris and I both had our 21st birthdays at 14k. Summited from 14k in 13 hours round trip. Perfect weather.
No no no,
Jaegermeister is fantastic, it dulls the pain.
One of 77 that day
Good weather in teh beginning and then Vendula and I got stuck at the high camp (17,400) for three horrible days in high winds and some pretty cold temps. At the first "lull" in the weather we hightailed down to 14k, waited another day and then off. The window didn't open until after another week or so so I don't feel too bad about abandoning the attempt. There is always a next time.
11 summits in 12 attempts. I really love this mountain.
Great time, can't wait to come back.
Reached Denali Pass before I ran out of steam. I'll need to train harder for the next attempt. Weather was pretty bad anyways. Good overall weather and great friends made it a fun trip though.
1979: West Rib attempt with the Korean expedition
1983: Reality Ridge attempt with Bill Crouse
Our team originally had its sights set on the West Rib, then the Upper West Rib cutoff, but ultimately we wimped out and climbed the butt. 12 hrs RT from 17k camp. I barely felt the altitude! Great weather. Trip report and photo links coming soon.
After spending 6 days at the 14k' camp and then another 5 days at the 17k' camp due to high winds, summited on 5/30 Friday. Total of 19 days to the summit. Started out as a part of 5-person rope team, but was solo above the 14k' camp, as rest of the team could not wait out the storms. Fortunately, I was climbing totally self-sufficient in terms of gear from the start: my own tent, two stoves, shovel, saw, repair kits, etc.. The heavy pack and sled made the climb and the solo descent especially memorable. Denali, what a mountain! It was worth the time, money, and effort!!!
Summited on the 16th day of the trip. What an awesome experience! Started out in a whiteout but we climbed above the clouds at Denali Pass and it turned out to be a cold but fine summit day!. It took about 13 hours RT from 17K camp.
This is my 23rd state highpoint.
Daily dispatches and photos from the trip here.