climbed above the clouds and the weather to a beautiful sunny afternoon summit on the last day before having to head back down.
Summit with Andrew Councell. We were the first to reach the summit for three days. Everything was freshly corniced and beautiful. Breaking trail was hard but it was nice to be out of the trough. The start of the day was crappy but everything cleared up and it was pretty warm and clear on the summit.
Took one day to get down from 17,000 to the base. I don't recommend this.
Way too many people climbing this mountain for my taste. I don't know if I will ever come back but if I do I will stay far away from the West Butt. See my TR here.
Summited on day 19. We were one of the last teams to summit that year.
Reached the summit on day 13 via West Buttress. Weather was surprisingly good high on the mountain. The views were spectacular all along the route.
The biggest pain was the fixed lines and getting behind people crawling on their knees!
Overall, one of the most beautiful mountains I've ever seen. Highly recommended.
Summit reached in perfect weather conditions with a French expedition.
Having climbed all around the world, I can only say it was the most fantastic expedition I took part.
Admiring Amercia from the top is just a moment to be lived.
True, it's a bit overcrowded, but it's really another planet! We were lucky having 7 days in a row of fine weather after terrible storms causing 10 fatalities during that season. (But I strongly recommend being roped all the way, and i mean ALL the way, wether walking OR skiing! Mind about the crevasses even if you think there's no obvious danger).
I love Alaska!
After spending 5 days at 17K in foul weather, we were out of food and we had decided that tomorrow was either up or down, we had no other choice. We woke early to beautiful clear skies with calm winds and headed for the summit. We celebrated our success for about 10 minutes, taking the obligatory photos and then headed back to camp as big black clouds began to move in from the north/northwest. On our descent we heard thunder and made it back to camp just prior to the ensuing whiteout.
Went for the summit at night, departing 17,200' at 10:30 pm. Clear but very cold, teammates were forced to turn back above the pass, but I kept going. Found myself on the summit approx. 3 am to watch the sunrise. Had the entire upper mountain to myself!! Spectacular!
Aidan, Jamy and I had the summit to ourselves at 02:32am. Clear skies and great views. Getting to the top was only part of the experience - we met so many people from all over the world and had a great game of frisbee at 14,200' camp.
Three of us summited this beautiful mountain on Tuesday 6/14/05, the very last day possible with our food and fuel supplies, after many many days sitting in a tent waiting for a weather window. We totally lucked out... headed up to Denali pass in (still) lousy weather, high winds and cold temps. Felt OK at the pass, so decided to push a bit further. An hour later we climbed out of the muck into clear blue skies to the summit. Due to lousy weather lower, we virtually owned the summit this day!
Went to sleep the night before at 2am in -40 degrees farenheit. The summit day was suprisingly easy compared to the day before, from ABC to The "eagle's nest" (camp 18,500 ft). Gotta say pig hill SUCKS!!!!
Summitted around 6 pm on 01 June 1994 with Jane Koski.
Look forward to hearing of others who have done the North route. Ours retraced Stuck's original, almost 60 years to the day, so we called it the Diamond Jubilee Expedition. 4 of us. 39 days to summit - 2 storms - lots of thrills...and many memories. Team mate Dave Carroll went back and was lost along with 3 others on South route in about 1981.
Is there a list of ascents by year/route?
Summitted on beautiful day. Used Alpine Ascents Intl. guide service. Not fun but definitely challenging and adventurous. Made a great movie about our ascent.
Last of my fifty state high points. Excellent trip....thoughts of returning to try Foraker.
We had a perfect 12 hr weather window for our summit attempt.
Together with my friend Jan we reached the summit on 14 june 04. There where very strong winds on the summit and the summit ridge. Several times the wind knocked us down and we had to lay down on the ridge. We only stayed 1 minute on the summit because of the winds. We where the only two that summited that day.
15 days up 2 down A great trip with 5 climbers from across the USA.Good weather conditions and good company every day on the mountain.Smoke from forest fires at 14,000 camp only dark spot of whole trip.
First summit attempt had to be cancelled 90m below the summit due to extremely strong winds on the summit ridge. Summitted in perfect weather after a couple of days of resting ang waiting for the right moment to sneak on the top.
Night temperatures in high camp were around -20 C and due to an unusually warm june the lower Kahiltna Glacier was badly crevassed when we descended.
Hint: Prepare to assemble some sort of brake system to your sled for the descent so that it does not slide on your heels. Remember to rig it reasonably so that you will not hurt yourself badly in case of a severe crevasse fall!
Please see my trip report.
I had great time. Best part - 16 Ridge. Made it to the summit in 12 days, 2 days down, with all fingers and toes intact. We were pretty lucky with weather, bad weather days were our rest days anyway. I will post a trip report soon.