Devil's Castle Climber's Log

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Matthew Van Horn

Matthew Van Horn - Aug 25, 2011 12:13 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2011

Deuce  Sucess!

08/24/2011 With Jacob Moon

07/24/2010 3 AM

08/01/2008 West to East all summits with Justin Anderson

07/25/2008 East to West with Scott Wesemann

07/19/2007 with Justin Anderson, 4:20 AM start from the car at Albion Basin campground. Traversed the full Castle East to West, then hiked up to Sugarloaf and back down to cecret Lake and the car. We saw 3 moose: one bull and later, a mother and calf.

08/05/2006 with Joe Bullough and Justin Anderson. Hiked the full Castle from East to West as a Bullion Divide bonus, then we continued to Sugarloaf and the full Divide route to White Baldy.


madsjim - Jul 9, 2011 9:46 pm

Fun!  Sucess!

Very fun! Despite the rock looking crumbly, it is very easy to climb and like many other large alpine climbs, you can usually find an easier route if you feel uncomfortable with the exposure.


yadahzoemtn - Jun 20, 2011 9:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2006

Just Plain Fun  Sucess!

08/16/06 Took Kim to all three towers and down Albion Basin


thigbee - Feb 18, 2011 10:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2011

Climbed via 3 Technical Routes  Sucess!

I climbed this 3 times via 3 routes in the summer of 2011. It's some of my favorite rock climbing in the Wasatch. Big, dark, adventurous... What's not to love?

Here are links to my TRs (with pics) on my blog:

Black Streak (5.10c, 6 pitches)
Horns of Satan (5.10c, 8 pitches)
Portable Darkness (5.9+, 6 pitches)

I'll definitely be back to climb the rest of the routes.

Ed F

Ed F - Jan 31, 2011 8:33 pm

Great scramble  Sucess!

Sometime in August of 07


ZeeJay - Dec 16, 2010 10:21 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2007

Fun scramble  Sucess!

6/27/2007 Did Sugarloaf first and then Devil's Castle. With lesdubois.

6/30/2001 Did American Fork Twin Peaks, Hidden Peak, Baldy, Sugarloaf, Devil's Castle, and 10864. With MM.


madjohnbo - Aug 18, 2010 9:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2010

Very fun  Sucess!

Very enjoyable and not as difficult as it might seem. Some parts of climbing required some concentration but were easy enough. It was good to meet BigNick and chat on top.


derekthered - Aug 9, 2010 9:33 am Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2010

solo hike  Sucess!

fun and easy :)


Bignick - Aug 2, 2010 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2010

Awsome  Sucess!

Did this today and met Madsjim and Madjohnbo near the Sugarloaf/DC saddle. They led the climb, I followed. I took a slightly different route to the 2nd summit and attained the ridge early and traversed to the mailbox. Signed the register, had a drink and on to the third. Great weather made for a pleasent half day hike. This makes #4 for these peaks.


jamesmc2 - Jul 5, 2010 1:55 am

Black Streaker!

Climbed via the Black Streak. This route was originally rated 5.11a but has been appropriately down graded to 5.10. I have also climbed Devil's Castle as a day hike. Offers some of the best view in the area.


builttospill - Jan 27, 2010 4:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2008

Couloir, Ridge Scramble  Sucess!

We delayed a trip to Colorado due to weather, so our consolation was climbing this couloir and one on the Pfeifferhorn the day before. This one was a good, fun, steep snow climb with a bit of rock scrambling thrown in.

I've also done the standard scrambling route in the summer, which is a great, quick climb (can be done in under 2 hours roundtrip, definitely).

utclimber - Aug 8, 2009 9:09 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009

West Ridge  Sucess!

Cool knife ridge. I think it is probably closer to 3rd/4th class in difficulty, but this hike has some exciting exposure.


NoSubas - Dec 22, 2008 4:20 am

Cecret Lake



Kadee - Dec 8, 2008 5:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2005

West Ridge  Sucess!

One of the couple peaks that I did in '05. Just started out hiking when I did this one and my love for scrambling kept growing.

Did it again this year '08 but can't remember the exact date. Hiked it after work, to enjoy the sunset on the summit.


byates - Dec 2, 2008 12:09 pm

Mutiple routes and climbs  Sucess!

Usually do it as a traverse, a few times summit only.

Scott Wesemann

Scott Wesemann - Aug 15, 2008 6:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2008

A dance with the Devil

Climbed with Matthew Van Horn, doing all three summits East to West. This is an excellent scramble, giving you the best the Wasatch has to offer. I think it is harder to go East to West, because the down climbing is much more difficult. (See trip report)

Travis Atwood

Travis Atwood - Aug 13, 2008 1:34 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008

Summit at Dusk  Sucess!

Climbed with Ammon for a quick after work outing. Fun scramble for such a quick trip. We ended up coming down in the dark.

Ammon Hatch

Ammon Hatch - Aug 13, 2008 1:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008

Summit at Dusk  Sucess!

Went up after work for a quick hike with Travis Atwood. The sun was setting when we started scrambling, but we made it back past the sketchy sections before dark. Great scrambling with plenty of exposure to go around. Ran into climbingchic during the scrambling.


dunsum - Jun 7, 2008 11:04 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2008

Devil's Castle Couloir  Sucess!

Climbed with Brenton Peterson on a fine, late-spring day; still a ton of snow hanging around this year.


vanman798 - Apr 5, 2008 8:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2016

Timp looks amazing from  Sucess!

August 27, 2016 - Mike Halls and I climbed Portable Darkness (six pitches). We swung leads, I took the first pitch. Approach from the campground was 35ish mins. Time on climb was about 3 hours. Scramble to peak was under 30 mins. Descent (walk off to the west) was about 1.5 hours.


August 11, 2012. Climbed the six pitch Portable Darkness Route then scrambled to the peak.
Start climbing at 12:04 pm. Here are our times (climbed with Scott C)...Both at top of p1 at 12:46 pm. Both at top of p2 at 1:41 pm, both at top of p3 at 1:57 pm, both at top of p4 at 2:34, both at top of p5 at 3:02, and both at top of p6 at 3:38 pm. 4:15 on the summit. 5:30 pm at Cecret lake, and 6:30 at the Alta parking lot.
April 5, 2008 While skiing at Alta, I put on my climbling skins and skinned up to the East Peak of Devils Castle (aka East Castle); I got right up on top so I could look down the South aspect. It only took about 30 minutes to do it from the Supreme lift at Alta. First time I did it was March 22, 2008, but I didn't bother with the views like I did this time.

East Castle is at 40.56603ºN / 111.61101ºW with an elevation of 10,880 ft.

Also today (April 5, 2008), I skinned up to the ridge between Sugarloaf and Devils Castle, and had a look down the south aspect. I was at 40.56528ºN / 111.61824ºW, about 0.6 km E (82°) of East Castle at an elevation of 10,800 ft.

Loved the views of Timp from both locations.

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