Dolphin Dreams

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
technical rock
Time Required:
One to two days
Difficulty:
V, 5.11-, A3

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Dolphin Dreams
Created On: Oct 7, 2002
Last Edited On: Jun 11, 2012

Approach

From the day use parking lot near the end of Hwy 180 in Cedar Grove directly below North Dome, hike up talus and forested slopes to the foot of the Dome. The approach takes 30 - 45 minutes.

Route Description

Start to the right of the left side of the huge Roman Arch. Pitch 1 - climb a gully crack past a bush to a ledge, then traverse left on face ( 5.9 ) past the arch. Pitch 2 - easy 5th class leads 130' up a corner to the base of a steep corner. Pitch 3 - A2 or 5.10+ leads 120' up the corner to a crack system on the main wall. Pitch 4 - a difficult ( 5.11- ) lieback is followed by tricky aid ( A3 ). Pitch 5 - mixed free and aid ( 5.8, A3 ) leads straight up small corners to a belay above a small roof. Pitch 6 - more mixed free and aid leads up 140' to a belay. Pitch 7 - a long ( 160' ) 5th class pitch leads to the last pitch - the Borneo Traverse.
To descend, head west and north until it is possible to drop down into the gully west of North Dome. Follow this south and back to the road.

Essential Gear

NOTE: this is the gear list from 1985 - there has been no known 2nd ascent as of June 2012.

The following is recommended - 4 knife blades, 7 lost arrows, 4 bugaboos, 3 each angles - 1/2" & 3/4", 2 each angles 1" & 1 1/4", 3 - 1 1/2' angles, 1 each 3" - 4" bongs, 2 Leeper Z pins, 12 stoppers, cams ( 2 each # 1 - # 2 1/2 Friends, 3 - 4 each # 3 - # 4 Friends, or equal ). Hammocks if you plan to bivy.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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