Dr. Coolhead

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 34.69560°N / 98.6659°W
Additional Information Route Type: Technical Rock Climb - Sport
Additional Information Time Required: Less than two hours
Additional Information Difficulty: 5.10a RX
Sign the Climber's Log


From the picnic area, hike past the rock cabin southeast on a well-used trail. A hundred yard or so past the cabin, the trail climbs a rocky hill. Turn right at the top of the hill and head southwest. The trail will circle around toward the creek and enter the woods. After a hundred yards or so, the trail will leave the woods and cross the creek. After the crossing, climb a slight grade to the top of the ridge where you will be able to see Wizard Wall on the left and great views down the canyon. The trail drops down the right side and crosses the creek again. Follow a sandy trail for about 100 yards. Look for Zoo Wall high and to the right. Don't go too far, and cross the creek again shortly after Zoo Wall. Follow the switchbacks up to Zoo Wall.

Route Description

Middle Zoo Wall is very popular due to routes like this. Dr. Coolhead has a long history, most of which involves severe falls and bolting issues. The beginning of Dr. Coolhead is actually another route called McBride's Mind, but most now consider the entire line to be Dr. Coolhead. The first bolt is about 15-20 ft up and many have tried to add additional bolts to make the beginning of the climb safer. However, Dr. Coolhead was put up on lead in a bold style which was the norm for the time. The original ascenders want to keep it this way, and as a result, any additional bolts which have been added are immediately chopped. There is a very thin flake which will take a microcam to partially protect the beginning of the route. Because there are only two bolts in 80 ft, most top-rope it. 80 feet. First ascent: Duane Raleigh

Crimps and edging are the order of the day on Dr. Coolhead. The route eases a bit near the top. Have fun!

Click to enlarge. Dr. Coolhead: Route #3

Essential Gear

Two quick draws and a couple of micro's if leading. :-)

When top-roping, please do not top-rope directly from the anchor chains. Instead, use lockers and runners. This keeps the anchor chains from excessive wear.

60 meter rope and a helmet.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.