From the picnic area, hike past the rock cabin southeast on a well-used trail. A hundred yard or so past the cabin, the trail climbs a rocky hill. Turn right at the top of the hill and head southwest. The trail will circle around toward the creek and enter the woods. After a hundred yards or so, the trail will leave the woods and cross the creek. After the crossing, climb a slight grade to the top of the ridge where you will be able to see Wizard Wall on the left and great views down the canyon. The trail drops down the right side and crosses the creek again. Follow a sandy trail for about 100 yards. Look for Zoo Wall high and to the right. Don't go too far, and cross the creek again shortly after Zoo Wall. Follow the switchbacks up to Zoo Wall then traverse right for about 20 yards after reaching middle Zoo. There is also a class 4 gully to the right of the route which is a more direct approach.
The first part of this route is bouldery with no pro opportunity. Do this section for 10 ft or so to a good ledge. Pro is good after this, but you will have to look hard and be imaginative. The middle section of the route is the crux and it is HARD 5.8. This route is not recommended for the beginning 5.8 leader, but it is still a hoot. Descend via the anchors above middle Zoo wall. 120 ft.
Triple Decker: Route #3. Click to enlarge.
One 60 meter rope, a variety of pro, several long slings, and a helmet.
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