Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Techncal Rock Climb
Time Required:
Less than two hours
YDS 5.8+

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Created On: Aug 18, 2004
Last Edited On: Aug 30, 2004


From the parking area hike west up the steep forested hill. There is a use trail heading up roughly 50 yds. from the end of the pavement. The top of the hill known as "Camp Ridge" is about 500' elevation gain from the road. When you reach the ridge, Chimney Spire will be visible. Hike down the trail to the notch between Chimney Spire and Chimney Rock. The approach takes about 20-30 minutes from the car. Duet is the obvious right facing dihedral on the South East face.

Route Description

Pitch 1: Climb the right facing dihedral to the big ledge. (5.8+).
Pitch 2: From the ledge tunnel through behind the large block/flake and up the chimney, then face climb to the bolted belay. (5.6)
Pitch 3: Climb up to the bolted belay on the summit (5.6,20').

Decent: From the summit, rap 20' to the bolted anchor then rap approx. 100' to the next bolted anchor, then one more 80' rap to the ground. It is possible to do one rappel to the ground from the top of the second pitch with two 60 meter ropes but it will be very difficult to pull the ropes down.

Essential Gear

Standard rack.
Cams to 4"
1 set nuts

Miscellaneous Info

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