E-flank and ENE-ridge

Page Type
Wallis/Valais, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Glacier climb / Technical rock climb
Time Required:
Half a day
PD, I - II - III

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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E-flank and ENE-ridge
Created On: Aug 29, 2003
Last Edited On: Aug 29, 2003


You have to go to the town of Täsh and leave your car there or go to the camping just beyond the big parkingarea and the railwaystation. You have to cross the railway at your right side driving to the direction of Zermatt. You can take the train to Zermatt (15.6 CHF/pp) or you can take a taxi bus at the gas station at the other side of the road of the the big parking area (5 CHF/pp to Zermatt).From Zermatt you follow the direction Trift and it will lead you to a steep road to the café "Alterhaupt" 2961m that is visible from the town of Zermatt.Then it will go further to the Trifthotel . After the Trifthotel it wil take about another 2 1/2 hours to reach the Rothornhut. First you'll pass a valley and then it is a steep climb over the moraine to the hut.Tf number of the Rothornhut = 0041(0) 27 967 20 43 . The food is excellent !

Route Description

From the Rothornhut go NW to the glacier and cross the glacier NW towards the rocks of the Col de Mountet. Then you turn SW and climb the glacier slope whilst gradually turning S to reach the snow shoulder where the rocks of the E-flank begins.(Look out for stonefall from the NE side of the wellenkuppe).Climb the shoulder, turning the first steep section on the left. (in good conditions you can see the cairns). From the snow shoulder you can see the big "cairn" above at the ENE-ridge. That is your point to focus on. Then you up at the right side of the corridor and follow the little bit steep rocks your right till you reach the "cairn" on the ridge.Back on the ridge continue for about 100 m to a small butress wich is also turned on the left. Return immediately to the ridge and reach the final steep section wich is impressive looking but easily climbed (max III / There are stand with ropes every 25 à 30 m/ starting point is on the ridge not left of it). When you reach the top you'll have to cross a snowfield and snowcrest to the summit for about 150m.(max 45° at the top, if it's icy use some ice screws on the way. In normal conditions it will take you about 2 1/2 Hr to the summit. We did it in almost 6 Hr in snow conditions , so the scale turned into AD+ or D(route finding was very difficult) .

Essential Gear

Double rope 2x 50 ( Abseil the steep section)
Some slings
Some friends, camalots or nuts ( 1/4,3/4,1,2)
Map EVOLENE 1327 1:25000

Miscellaneous Info

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E-flank and ENE-ridge

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