East Face

Page Type
Colorado, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Half a day
Class 4 - 5.3

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Created On: Jul 25, 2004
Last Edited On: Jul 25, 2004


The start of this route is on the Ophir Pass Road, located between Telluride and Silverton.

From Silverton, follow HWY 550 north for 5 miles to a signed turn to the left (west) for Ophir Loop. Take this turn and follow the 4x4 road west for 3.25 miles to a small parking area at a switchback and the best place to start your climb.

From Telluride, follow HWY 145 south for 7.5 miles to the signed turn for the Ophir Loop. Take this left (east) turn and follow the dirt road for 2 miles to the town of Ophir and then continue 4 more miles to the top of Ophir Pass. From the top of Ophir Pass, continue east for 1.25 miles to a small parking area at a switchback on the road. This is the best place to start your climb.

Route Description

From the switchback on the Ophir Loop Road, hike south into Paradise Basin. Continue up the basin until at the east face of South Lookout. The east face is made up entirely of steep, rotten couloirs. Ascend the loose and steep rock to the base of the summit block. The central couloir seems the best, however, it is still far from good cllmbing. Once at the summit block, the route ascends about 75 feet up a leaning crack on the south face. This crack is lower 5th class climbing and should be protected. The rock is not too solid, so pick your placements wisely.

The round trip is about 3.75 miles and 2,100 vertical feet.

Essential Gear

Technical rock equipment is highly recommended for the 75 foot summit block. Helmet, harness, rope, some chocks or cams (size may vary depending on how the crack is holding up).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.