East Ridge

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Scrambling
Season:
Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
Class 3
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Page By:
East Ridge
Created On: Nov 5, 2004
Last Edited On: Feb 27, 2006

Approach

From the Lake Sabrina TH, take the trail to Hungry Packer Lake. Leave the trail before reaching Hungry Packer Lake (when abreast Sailor Lake) and gain the ridge northwest of Hungry Packer. Follow this to the unnamed lake just below the 12,000-foot level, then head southwest and south to the cirque north of Haeckel's East Ridge.

Route Description

The name of the route is terribly misleading. There is no climbing along the East Ridge other than to cross over it. The route up the east ridge of Haeckel itself goes by the name East Arete, and at III, 5.8, it is an altogether different climb. For the East Ridge route, the object is to climb up to the saddle on the east ridge and cross over to the other side.

The north side is a boulder/talus hike until the snowfield is reached. Climb the snowfield, followed by several hundred feet of loose talus to the saddle. Cross over to the southeast side of Mt. Haeckel and traverse almost to the South Ridge until you find class 3 ledges that can be taken up the southeast side to the summit. This is the most enjoyable part of the scramble. Ducks near the top take you to an easy ramp just right of the summit that leads up to the top. You can also follow the South Ridge directly at something a little harder, more like class 3-4, but enjoyable on good rock.

The snowfield can be avoided by approaching the East Ridge from Echo Lake and the cirque between Mts. Wallace and Haeckel. If you go this route, the South Ridge is easier and quicker. Be warned that the route up from Echo Lake involves over 1,000ft of tedious boulder hopping.

Essential Gear

Axe and crampons highly recommended for climbing the snowfield on the north side of East Ridge. Ice may be present late in the season (our party encountered no ice in early August, '04).

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.







East Ridge

Route
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Geography

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Parents

Mount HaeckelRoutes