Elefantenrussel

Overview

Elefantenrussel is a beautiful yet athletic sport climb in the Urner Alps in central Switzerland. First climbed by Jurg von Kanel, the writer of the Schweiz Plaisir guide books. The route is located on the Hannibalturm, 2882m, and is south facing. As a result the climb is accessible early in the season and you can climb in the sun for most of the day. The route itself follows a system of cracks and dihedrals, intersected by a couple of small roofs while avoiding the big roofs. It also features some flakes!

The route is rated 6b (6a+ obl.), 200m.

Getting There

Read the main page on how to get to the base of the Hannibalturm. Once there you traverse most of the base from right to left until you see a picture of an elaphants trunk and the word "Elefantenrussel" painted on the rocks.



Note that in late spring and early summer the glacier can still be covered in snow so you should bring appropriate gear like crampons and an ice pick.

Swiss map 1:25000: Landes Karte der Schweiz, blatt 1231 "Urseren".

Route Description

The route is very well equipped by bolts every 3-5m. The belay stations are also excellent. 5 pitches, total length 200m, if you are quick it can be done in 2 hours, but you will probably need a bit more time.



Pitch 1: follow a system of cracks, 5b.
Pitch 2: climb a ramp (for 2/3 of the way) and then a short wall, 5c+. Do not use the belay station at the end of the ramp, it belongs to another route and might get you into trouble.
Pitch 3: climb a tiny roof, then follow a system of cracks, 6a+.
Pitch 4: the crux, climb a small roof on good holds, then folow a magnificent crack to the big roof. Underneath the big roof you traverse to the left, 6b.
Pitch 5: follow a system of cracks and flakes to reach the summit of the Hannibalturm, 6a.
(Pitch 6: if you want you can use the belay station 15m below the summit to reduce rope drag.)

Enjoy the summit bench.

Pitch 2

Pitch 4, roof

Pitch 4, crack

Descent can be done using the abseils, the green dots in the topo. Use a 60m double rope. If your rope is shorter you can abseil using the Conquest of Paradise route.

If you have enough time left, climb Conquest of Paradise!

For a detailed topo and description:
Schweiz Plaisir Ost
Topoguide Band I

Important note: the grading I took from the Schweiz Plaisir Ost, in my opinion however pitch 3 felt more like the crux and not pitch 4. Pitch 3 still felt like 6a+ but pitch 4 felt more like 6a instead of 6b.

Essential Gear

Standard sport climbing gear, 12 express slings, 60m double rope, possibly crampons and an ice axe if the glacier is snow covered.

External Links

Furka pass access click on "Passe" and search for Furka.
Landes Karte der Schweiz
Sidelenhut
Schweiz Plaisir Ost
Topoguide Band I

Images

View Elefantenrussel Image Gallery - 9 Images