Best approach is from bivouac Pedroni-Del Prá placed in upper part of Val Codera (approx. 45min walk and scrambling).
Two variants are possible.
- Directly up (from belay with bolts) ussing cracks (5b).
- An easy climb (3) ussing large corner right from the first belay.
Easy corner climb. Follow the corner until reaching belay.
From a large ledge climb a bit left and later right using delicate thin cracks in a slab. Finally cross a ridge into a corner.
Follow the corner untill reaching ledge (belay) bellow nearly vertical wall.
From belay just climb up following a prominent crack.
Continue ussing the crack until its end on a ledge bellow a overhang (some loose stones!)
Traverse right bellow an overhang with crack (off width). The crack will help you reaching a slanting ramp (some snow can appear on the ramp depending season). Follow the ramp to the left. It will lead you to the vertical finger crack. Climb the crack (could be wet 6a+ or even 6b) to the belay.
Climb up slabs and corners until reaching the last protected belay
Easy but a bit unstable terrain leading to a walkable ridge.
60m ropes, set of friends, set of ballnuts (or couple of pittons), some nuts and slings.