Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.29204°N / 9.58042°E |
GPX File:
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Download GPX » View Route on Map |
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Route Type:
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Mountaineering |
Season:
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Summer |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.10 (YDS) |
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Difficulty:
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7 UIAA (6b Fr.) |
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Number of Pitches:
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8 |
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Overview
Rubber Duck is new route in NW wall of Punta Torelli. Belays are protected by stainless bolts.Getting There
Best approach is form bivouac Pedroni-Del Prá placed in upper part of Val Codera (approx. 45min walk and scrambling).
Route Description
P1: 3, 50m. Easy direct climb crossing few ledges
P2: 6b, 50m. Generally straight up crossing slab protected by two bolts (right from a wet off width) into a corner. Following corner until reaching belay.
P3: 5b, 55m. Corner (dihedral) climb
P4: 3, 35m. Few meters up and then right crossing a slab with few cracks
P5: 5c, 55m. From belay some meters right until delicate steep corner. Climbing up the corner and in favourable place crosing right into parallel corner. The second corner will lead you to the belay.
P6: 6a+, 50m. Directly up crosing vertical terrain protected by piton, bolt into sloping ledge. Still directly up (piton) until reaching large slab protected by bolt.
P7: 5a, 58m. Easy climb finished by belay in two friends.
P8: 3, 30m. Easy but a bit unstable terrain leading on walkable ridge.
Best descent: Scramble down in direction of Gianetti hut. Returning into Val Codera is possible crossing Passo Porcelizzo.