Espolón Paiju

Page Type
Alicante, Spain, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.10b (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Espolón Paiju
Created On: Aug 19, 2009
Last Edited On: Aug 28, 2009

First Ascension

J. Agulló & F. Durá (1973)


From the Cabeçó d'Or parking, follow the forest road (500m) until we find a concrete slope where we take a path on the right-hand. In about 15 minutes, we have reach the base of the route. From the path, we can see the sport sector (photo)

Sport climbing sector (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24Sport sector

Route Description

1st pitch (IV+, 35m) Start to climb at the right-hand of the rib, looking for the arete.

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24The 1st pitch

2nd pitch (V, 30m) Climb by the rib, and continue slightly to the left to a belay.

Espolón Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24The 2nd pitch

3rd pitch (V, 45m) Follow the logical line in the rib to a terrace full of shrubs.

4th pitch (IV+, 25m) We go back to the rib to a belay ledge

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24The 4th pitch

5th pitch (IV+, 30m) It's possible to do this pitch together with the preceding. Climb up to headwall and traverse left to an uncomfortable and poor belay (a rusty spit & threads). It's advisable to complete the belay with a friend. (2006.06.24)

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24The 5th pitch

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24Belaying the 6th pitch

6th pitch (6b - V+/A1, 35m) The crucial pitch. Climb along the crack slightly upwards to the obvious end of the route. Very few supports to the feet. To belay the second, we can do in a rock bridge at the end of the terrace . When I climb this route, we decided to free climb this pitch, and certainly, it was hard for me

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24The 6th pitch

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24The 6th pitch

Espolon Paiju (Cabeçó d Or). 2006.06.24The 6th pitch

The descent route is marked in blue in the main photo.

Essential Gear

Personal equipment (harness, helmet,...)
10-12 quickdraw
Friends or cams
Advisable two ropes
Large rings
Comfortable shoes for the descent

When to climb

In summer, it's necesary to start early to avoid the harder sun.
In the rest of the seasons, there's no special problem, although in winter can be cold specially in the 6th pitch because of its orientation.

External links

Espolón Paiju

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