A group of seven of us bagged this peak on August 19, 2009. It's a long approach into this peak so to conserve energy we took two days to hike into the upper Titcomb Lake, where we set up our "base" camp. From our base camp to the top of Bonney Pass took us just under 2 hours. From Bonney Pass to the bergschrund took another 2.5 hours. From the bergschrund to the peak took about 1.25 hours. Total ascent time from our base camp was 5 hours 45 minutes.
This was a grueling hike/climb. We had much more snow than most every picture shows. I had thought this to be a fairly straight forward climb, and for the most part it was. The difficulty was in the time it took. I normally can climb/hike significantly faster than most blogs report (day climbed Kings Peak UT in 9 hours (30 miles) and it took a good 2 days to get to Titcomb Basin. Left there at 4 AM, arrived Bonney Pass at 8 AM, summitted at 2:30, return to Titcomb Lake at 8:30. Found my son had moved camp to Island Lake then had another 4.5 mile hike in the dark after having been gone for 16 hours. Luckily I saw a head lamp approaching around 9:45 and my son met me with H20 and carried my pack back to Island Lake, finally arriving around 11 AM. Longest day of my climbing career which includes a successful summit of Denali (17,000 feet to summit then back to 14,000).
Don't sell this mountain short or you will be in for a surprise.
Ropes not really needed unless you have a real secure need inside you. It certainly wouldn't hurt.
Great 6 night trip starting at Green River Lakes, close moose encounter at Vista Pass, over Knapsack Col to Titcomb Basin then to Bonney Pass. Camped on the large lateral moraine below Gooseneck Pinnacle just below 12000ft making an easy summit day (2 hrs 15 min from camp to summit). Bergshrund was well covered. Back out in 2 days following the Glacier Trail towards Trail Lake.
After camping a little way up Tourist Creek, we went to the summit in 6 1/2 hours, and then I returned to the trailhead (Green River Lakes) in 10 hours. Really tough haul. On the way in , passed my brother coming out from a new Fastest Known Time record on Gannett. Congrats Peter!!
I had no intention of climbing Gannett during our 8 day trip into the Winds but poor weather prevented us from attempting our more technical goals on this day. Gannett made a good "bad weather peak" and was an easy climb from our camp at 10,800ft near Dinwoody Glacier. Visibility was very limited and it was snowing lightly on and off. The bergschrund was starting to open on one side but was still easily passable on the right.
until a thunder/snowstorm rolled in at 10:30 AM and chased us down. Only party to summit, the other two waited ~500' below the summit ridge for the weather to clear and it didn't cooperate. Lots of snow remained from the end of Titcomb Basin, berg snowbridge looked like it might hold out for 2 more weeks. Had to punt on plans for Fremont's SW Buttress due to a low pressure system that moved in on our summit day.
One of my favorite climbs thus far. Straightforward alpine climbing in a gorgeous area!
One of the more difficult state highpoints to get, but definitely the most rewarding so far. Long approach, heavy pack, thick mosquitoes and the re-climb of Bonney Pass all work against you, but trekking through jaw-dropping scenery all the way helps. The snow and the main route were in great shape on this particular day - the crevasse at the bergschrund had started to open up, but we crossed to climbers right on solid snow. From there, we gained the incredibly scenic summit ridge and the celebration was on.
This was the single-most challenging, exciting, and rewarding mountaineering trip I have had until now. This is definitely the second-most difficult State Highpoint to summit, without question. I have a lot of respect for my climbing partner, who made the difficult decision to quit his ascent when within 800'-900' elevation from the summit and already beyond the bergschrund, because he had a nagging injury. It takes a strong person to turn around after going through so much and getting so close. I wanted to turn around and end my summmit attempt to help him down the mountain, but because I was already past the "most technical" portion of the climb he pressed me to continue to the summit and then I caught up to him during the descent. The successful summit, my 39th State Highpoint achieved, felt empty without my partner with me, but then I was glad to have spent the remainder of the trip trying to give him first-aid and improvisational assistance. He couldn't walk out the 21 miles from our high camp, but fortunately we found an outfitter who took him out the final 16 miles via horseback (while I hiked it solo). This trip will be in my thoughts forever.
Did it on my NOLS trip. left camp at 3:30 and postholed up the north face. It was hot that day but still a good climb. Went down the Goose Neck then glissaded back to camp.
With Jill and Homer. Made the summit, but my body was broken on this one. Had some blown-out hips that ended up making each step painful. On the hike out I was shot, dragging along in agony, and suffered ignominious humiliation when studly Homer took pity on me and relieved me of some of my burden. I felt better then physically but far worse mentally. I guess not every trip can be an ecstatically blissful experience. Anyway, this is a beautiful mountain in a beautiful range.
We overnighted in the Titcomb Basin the first night and then moved over Dinwoody to ascend the sweet little couloir to Gannett's summit ridge the next day. My dog and I round tripped this one from Pocatello to Pocatello in 72 hours. Epic!!
Tromping through meadow upon soggy meadow of mosquites in the eyes, ears, nose, mouth. I'll come back when I can haul a sled over the snow.
Great climb when you finally get to it. Not to technical. We def. carried way to much technical gear. In most scenarios a rope is not even needed.
Brent & I hiked in to the north end of upper Titcomb lake on day #1, scouted out Bonney Pass & returned to camp day #2, hiked to the summit and back on day #3, and hiked out to Elkhart TH on day #4. The experience was tough but well worth the effort. No ropes necessary. This was Brent's 3rd time on the summit but my first. If I can, I will submit a trip report. It froze the day we hiked out, and the mosquito population was either stunned or killed; the first 3 days were undoubtedly heaven for the little buggers - fresh flesh!
I did this climb in 2 days from the Pinedale-Titcomb basin approach. I pushed to the top of Bonney pass and camped the first day. The second day I hit the summit and hiked out. It took 25 hours all together. I should have done it in one day since I didn't get any sleep anywase.
I have tried this mountain two times, once from Titcomb basin, and once from Green river lakes (north ridge), and have been stopped both times. we were planning going there again in early July of 2008, but there was to much snow on the trail.We will try again in the summer of 09. 7 20/09 finally made the summit via. titcomb. The snow was perfect for a summit. did mt. Fremont as well.
The snow is in great shape and the 'schrund wasn't an issue in the slightest. Never used the rope. We took four days...first night at Island Lake, second on top of Bonney Pass, and the third at the bottom of Titcomb Basin. Only saw three other climbers above Titcomb Basin and we had the summit to ourselves. Beautiful climb.
Elkhart/Bonney Pass/Gooseneck still in great shape. More or less snowfree til above high camp. Schrund is still covered. A nearby fire is dropping lots of smoke and ash in the area: A touch hard to breath/see at times; also the ash is making the snow particularly soft in the sun. The folks at the USFS station in Pinedale might have up to date info on the fire.