Gannett Peak Climber's Log

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BCJ - Aug 11, 2008 11:35 pm Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2008

Great Conditions  Sucess!

The snow is in great shape and the 'schrund wasn't an issue in the slightest. Never used the rope. We took four days...first night at Island Lake, second on top of Bonney Pass, and the third at the bottom of Titcomb Basin. Only saw three other climbers above Titcomb Basin and we had the summit to ourselves. Beautiful climb.

gajuhl - Aug 3, 2008 8:20 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2008

gooseneck  Sucess!

Elkhart/Bonney Pass/Gooseneck still in great shape. More or less snowfree til above high camp. Schrund is still covered. A nearby fire is dropping lots of smoke and ash in the area: A touch hard to breath/see at times; also the ash is making the snow particularly soft in the sun. The folks at the USFS station in Pinedale might have up to date info on the fire.


capnmetro29 - Jul 30, 2008 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008

Mountain in Good Shape  Sucess!

The bergschrund is just beginning to open up a bit at the edges. Snow in the chute is perfect for kicking steps. We decided not to use the rope due to the favorable conditions and lack of a 'schrund. This will likely change in another week or two. Some folks are taking to the snowfield and going around the rocks leading to the upper ridge, but I wouldn't advise it. The route through the rocks is pretty straightforward and the snowfield has significant exposure to the summit cliffs. Skeeters were pretty bad everywhere but high camp.


chilkoot - Jul 20, 2008 11:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2008

Mosquito Fest  Sucess!

COnditions were great for climbing. Plenty of snow filling in the bergschrund. The summit ridge was covered with snow and lots of fun to traverse. Summit itself was open rock and the canister is now accessible, though the papers inside are just a pile of mush.
The approach via the Glacier Trail is was mostly clear of snow, the stream crossings were a breeze, but the swarms of mosquitos had a voracious appetite that kept us moving right up until dinner time each day.
We had a great string of weather. Crystal clear sunshine everyday for the five days we were in there. Only one brief t'storm in the middle of our last night coming out.

wmokszycki - Jul 15, 2008 2:55 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2008

Highpoint #45  Sucess!

I trained hard for this trip. Not nearly hard enough! The 25 mile hike to the base of Gannett and back again is the hardest hike I've ever done. Summit day was routine glacier travel, taking 3 hours and 22 minutes. No register was visible with all the snow around the summit. Awesome views!


atpezboy - Jul 9, 2008 11:14 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008

Standard Route via Bonney Pass  Sucess!

Perfect climb with summit to ourselves. The standard route from Bonney Pass doesn't get any better than this year. No protection was required. Bergschrund was covered by 20 feet of snow. Only 1 crevasse was visible on route. Bonney Pass was covered in snow on both sides making for easy access. the only downside is the amount of snow on the approach through Titcomb Basin. This is definitely the year to climb.


mattdalman - Jul 9, 2008 8:45 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2008

gooseneck via titcomb basin  Sucess!

A pretty big snow season made the approach from Elkhart Park hard, but we had great weather and enough time. The bergshrund was completely covered and the summit ridge was amazing. It is quite the mountain, very impressive!


wyopeakMike - May 31, 2008 11:50 am

solo in 1998  Sucess!

I had a great time hiking and climbing up Gannett. I camped for three nights at the famous bivi boulder under the giant west face of Tower one, Mt Helen. Kicked steps up the south couloir to gain the ridge above. The south couloir was great fun to glissade, quite fast. The summit is an amazing place. Lots of NOLS groups around, making it seem busy with people. An incredible trip I hope to repeat one day.


Lubos - Mar 14, 2008 12:43 am Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2006

Pretty nature

I came from the east side, such a long two days approach on the horse trail, the hunting season started, people were wondering what is this guy doing up there, the weather was good, I did not reach the very top, a few feet, the ice was scary.


postholer - Feb 12, 2008 12:41 pm Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2001

all alone  Sucess!

Gannett will always be one of my favorite climbs. Having never been there before and being alone made the routefinding and climbing really satisfying. I remember seeing two guys low on the glacier, they were heading down as I was coming up. After that, not a soul. It was quite a feeling being on that mountain alone, especially at the top.


merrill - Feb 10, 2008 8:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2005

Gooseneck  Sucess!

We camped on Bonney Pass in the rain. It was nice to wait to leave camp until the rain stopped. Several parties walked past us in the predawn hours. We ended up passing all of them but a soloer. There was still a snow bridge to gain Gooseneck ridge. One of the funnest climbs I've done to date.


jimegan - Feb 7, 2008 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2005




hfaust - Dec 20, 2007 1:56 pm

up some couloir on the south side  Sucess!

Been up a few times in the late 90's guided clients on a variation of the gooseneck


wyomtman - Dec 12, 2007 12:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2005

Perfect!  Sucess!

Gooseneck route, approach from the north up the Dinwoody River (one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever hiked). Climbed the peak with great frieds, Mark and Laura, on the most perfect day. Had the whole mountain to ourselves!


tigerlilly - Sep 5, 2007 4:07 pm

If at first you don't succeed

Gosh, is my party the only group that didn't make it?! ha. Camped near Island Lake then in Titcomb Valley (gorgeous). Hoofed it up Bonny Pass (loose rubble). Glaciers running with little rivers of water. Crevasses were all small and you could walk over them easily. Up Gooseneck Glacier... discovered the snow bridge over the bergshrund was melted out. My husband's crampon broke, which he fixed with his wedding ring! Our group pretty much chickened out after seeing the hard ice choice. Hiked back quickly and dodged a nice lightening storm when we got back to our tents! eeek! We'll try again next summer! If you camp at Titcomb, go in and up as far as possible. Start out early on summit day. We left at 5:00am, which in retrospect was a little late. Eat a good breakfast, too! You'll need the energy! August might be too late, too. I think you'll have an easier time going over Bonny Pass in June, when it still has snow on it. have fun!


atavist - Aug 28, 2007 1:46 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2007

North Face  Sucess!

Started pre-dawn from Titcomb Basin, the glaciers required careful navigation, summitted via the North Face and arrived back to camp after dark.


timstab - Jul 27, 2007 1:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007

3 Day ascent  Sucess!

3 days on glacier trail. lots of beautiful scenery and an excellent summit day. No ropes just crampons and axe for the steep snow next to gooseneck pinnacle. Standard route was pretty easy.the hike in took more effort the the peak. well worth it


lonewolf2401 - Jul 21, 2007 11:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2007

Second Time Lucky  Sucess!

Wow, what an experience! Our party of four left on the New Glacier Trail on July 14th, and took 2 1/2 days to make high camp just short of the Tarns. Woke at 0400 for an 0530 trip through the boulder field from hell. Met up with three great folks from Poland who had traversed from the Bonney Pass Route. We all proceeded up the standard route to the snow bridge, which was in great shape. Above that, things got interesting, to say the least. The snow slope turned out to be almost all hard ice, with only a few narrow channels of climbable snow. A rope belay from above was used on the right side of the chute, with crampons and ice axe having almost no purchase in the ice. The remainder of the route was awesome, with some easy snow on the summit traverse. We all enjoyed beautiful summit weather, and then saw the grey puffy clouds we all know and love, moving in fast. On the descent of the snow chute, we rigged a rope belay from the highest rock outcropping and began down one by one. In the middle of this fun, while scrambling for traction, it began to rain! Those of us who had to wait halfway down the gully for the others to downclimb got very cold feet, since all of our socks and boots were soaked from the slushy snow. We all made it down and the weather cleared nicely. The next day, we could visibly see the snow gully had become even more icy since our climb. Be advised this part of the climb will prove very difficult from this point on, and a nice alternative route would be the rock rib to the left of the gully. Don't know how long the snow bridge will remain, but it looked good when we left. This trip was my most rewarding ever, with the trip on the Glacier Trail being all the equal of the summit climb itself. I will have photos posted soon. Good luck, climb safe, and happy trails!


paclimber - Jul 19, 2007 6:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2007

Third time's the charm  Sucess!

Third attempt in three years and finally made it to this awesome summit. From Elkhart Park Trailhead, over Bonney Pass, and then standard Gooseneck Route. State Highpoint # 45.

The Vor

The Vor - Jul 16, 2007 3:22 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2007

First Big Mountain  Sucess!

Awesome climb up standard gooseneck route. Actually wondered over a little to dinwoody glacier and saw quite the large crevasse. Low Snow year so wasn't quite what i was hoping but still had a blast. GREAT AREA.

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