2 days in to a high camp in Upper Titcomb at the base of Bonney. Day 3 we summited, returned to camp, and hiked back to the car at Elkhart.
Started from Dubois, and did the Glacier Trail. Hiked 19 miles to the Klondike Creek crossing on day 1. Day 2, summitted Gannett. The 'shrund still had a good week or two before collapse. Took Niko with me and he made it all the way to the summit with no problem. Rested a little, packed up camp, and hiked to Double Lake to round out day 2. Had to leave behind my hiking partner at Ink Wells Camp because of blisters. She paid $250 to ride a horse out the next day. I camped at Double Lake, and then did the remaining 11 miles on Day 3. Would highly recommend this route to anyone considering a Gannett attempt. Standing on top of the peak, I know you can come in from Titcomb, but it doesn't look feasible from standing on top of Gannett. It is beautiful country, and an amazing mountain. So glad to finally check this one off the list.
We took a variation of the SE Couloir Route where we took the right arm of the couloir towards the top (new route/FA??). Did a running belay placing pickets (mostly t-slots) on the way up. Snow was in great shape and we got a good early start. Got a lot steeper as we got closer to the the top (maybe 50-55 degrees which was a bit more than we had been expecting).
We then climbed about 1 1/3 pitch (2 full 40m rope lengths) of 5.4ish rock and then an easy traverse and came out right at the top of the Gooseneck Couloir at the pinnacle. Should have had some rock pro, but ended up not needing it as there were plenty of good flakes and horns to throw slings around. Not sure if anyone has done this variation, but with the added rock climbing it was a great alpine climb!
This proved to be an amazing experience all around, and possibly the most beautiful place in the lower 48.
Got a video of it:
Unfortunately my battery died about 1/4 up the couloir and I didn't get a good safe spot to switch it out until a good ledge just below the traverse to the pinnacle...
climbed the gooseneck route but we were chased off the summit by an electrical storm that blew in after only a few minutes up there. No worse place to be during lightning than being the highest person in the state with an ice axe in your hand!
We started at Green River Lakes, crossed glaciers at over Baker Lake, Summited Gannet, then down four more days to Big Sandy TH. Awesome trip! High snow year, great bridge at Gooseneck. It seemed only 300 feet of potential difficulty if done right.
Scenic Pass on Ink Wells was the best approach hike I've ever done.
Solo climb of Gannett Peak from camp in the upper Titcomb Basin. Bergshrund was still bridged in a couple of places. The snow slope above the bergshrund was mostly black ice, but the rock band on the right side provided enjoyable scrambling on low 5'th class terrain. The summit slope and ridge were mostly snow-free. Beautiful weather, scenic approach, nice climb on glacier, snow and rock (if you forget climbing up and down an unpleasant mess of boulders, scree and dirt while going over Bonney pass)- a perfect outing in the Winds!
Am I ashamed to admit I paid native Americans hundreds of dollars to smuggle me across their reservation in a '93 Chevy truck? No. Look, by using Ink Wells trail this mountain is very doable in three days.
Gannett offered a grade-A backcountry experience. The whole approach and route are gorgeous. National Park material. We even spotted two wolves stocking some pronghorns on Dinwoody Pass.
Approach via Ink Wells. Low camp at intersection with Glacier Trail. High camp at 10,500'. Bergschrund still had good snow-bridge. Snow was soft on most of route. Great weather for summit day.
Conditions and weather on the western standard approach over Bonney Pass were perfect June 12-14. My 12 year old daughter and I climbed Gannett in 3 days by using a mule to pack our gear 14 miles in and out. Both my daughter and I are very strong, expereinced hikers (completed 46 of the state high peaks) and it was a long, brutal hike in 3 days. I highly recommend using a mule if you want to do Gannett in 3 days. Without a mule, it would be an ambitious 4 day trip and a very manageable 5 day trip. Took us 8 hours to hike from the parking lot to Titcom Basin where we set up our base camp between lower and upper Titcom lakes. Summit day was a 15 hour trek... be prepared for a LONG day! You have to climb the equivalent of three mountains in one day - up and down Bonney Pass twice and up and down Gannett Peak. Took us 8 hours to hike back out. Crampons, ice ax, helmets... the whole nine yards of glacier climbing gear is needed at this time of year. We climbed Mt. Rainier last year and this climb was definitely more challenging. Absolutely beautiful area!
In via Ink Wells, out via Glacier Trail. Glad we allowed for 3 summit days as the weather wasn't real great (wind, sleet, hail) on 2 of the days. Went up on the 3rd day and it was still a bit windy and threatening but snow conditions were actually quite good. Bergschrund still passable - starting to open up on the right but as previous poster noted, ample room to pass and snow bridge was intact. A bit more exposure and snow on the summit ridge than I expected but just took it slow. Less than an 8 hour summit day from Tarn Camp and my husband climbed in Danner hunting boots and microspikes - HA! Took rope, ice screws and pickets but never took them out of the pack. Glad to have this one under the belt!
Standard route from Bonney Pass. Snow conditions good the whole way up, started 3am from between the Titcomb Lakes, summit at 1030am. Snow getting soft on the way down but still fine for controlled descent. Bergschrund was visible to climbers right but still snowed over at least 30ft across on the left to the gooseneck rocks. Similarly on the glaciers, some ice patches and crevasses were visible but there was always room to go around on snow. Fun but strenuous route over Bonney, and found it to be a good non technical first snow climb from the perspective of a rock scrambler. Being used to the drier Sierra, the big glaciers were a sight to see. The peaks in the area are impressively jagged and craggy too.
Trip of a lifetime
Via the Gooseneck Glacier, during an epic across-the-range spring ski trip.
A friend and I skied across the Wind River Range from the Torrey Lake entrance, up over Burro Pass, down into Dinwoody Creek, over Bonney Pass, then out to Elkhart Park.
The snow drought of 2015 was very evident, the lack of snow in spots on the east side required us to carry the skis in quite a few spots as we worked our way up the Dinwoody. Once we got close to Gannett the snow turned continuous, we had some great skiing, especially dropping back down the Gooseneck Glacier after the climb, up and over Bonney Pass, and then out from Island Lake to Elkhart.
Did not see another human the entire week, had the place to ourselves. Saw recent ski tracks once out to Island Lake, so someone was in the area.
Summited with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides via the Ink Wells/Glacier Trail route starting at the the Wind River Indian Reservation. Great trip, great people. Love this place.
The Wind Rivers. Who knew Wyoming had so much to offer? Phenomenal hike and my first experience with crevasses. Mind: blown.
Camped about 0,5 miles above the last creek crossing. Weather was changing on Sept 11th, left camp about 7a, partner turned back at base of glacier, I continued solo, took standard route up the gooseneck, the snowbridge over the bergschrund was good, stayed in the rocks after the gooseneck, topped out at 1215, couldn't find the summit register. It started snowing on the way down, took the "skiers" right decent, which made for a longer but safer route, back at camp at 4p. Snowed about 2" that night.
Took the scenic Pole Creek Titcomb Basin approach. Got to the trailhead late afternoon, hiked in and camped at Barbara Lake. Next day hiked up pass the upper Titcomb Lakes and set up camp. Summit day left camp at 4am, tagging the summit at about 9am...and back to camp by 2pm. The conditions were perfect! Berg was closed and Bonny Pass was a mix of firm snow and rock. Walked out the next day.
Success at last! Attempted last year, rushed it too much - gear drop via horse and pack in to Titcomb all in one day, then up at 3 am, stumbling around on rocks up to Bonney Pass exhausted. This year took several days to hike in, left camp at 5:30 am, a walk on the snow almost the entire way. No bergshrund, no snow bridge, no problem! With Jason, Mark, and Mark's son John.
I had an epic 10 meter fall into the 'schrund, followed by a self rescue. We stood on the summit by 9am. Amazing climb!