Free-soloed the Direct Exum Ridge in under an hour. Down-climbing the Owen Spalding route in rock shoes was quite an adventure due to snow and ice. Trip report here.
Beautiful rock and fantastic views! We climbed in two days with Exum guides. Perfect weather on both days. The Upper Exum Ridge has sensational low 5th class climbing with great exposure.
We summitted at 11:30 after making several variations of the Exum Ridge including climbing to the top of Carman's Pinnacle on the west edge of the ridge and scaling a slightly overhanging 20 wall to re-gain the standard route below the Horse.
The descent down Owen Spaulding was unremarkable except for a couple icy chimneys and a sweet 120 foot rappel.
Summited in perfect weather. Thanks to my wife, Jackie and also to Dasch and Jeremy from OR who we met at the Lower Saddle. You guys were great! See our trip report with photos here.
1965 (age 16) with the Exum guides - took their climbing school and finally learned how to use a rope.
1970 with Bob & Kathy Schultz.
Did the Grand car-to-car in 18.5 hrs with Stuart Cowles. After 6 failed attempts via various routes, the mountain gods finally rewarded my persistence!
Started at 3am from Lupine Meadows, started climbing ~ 8 am, summitted ~ 3pm. Down and out in the afternoon/evening. Great weather, only one other party on the Exum that day.
One of the most rewarding mountain routes I've done, especially the lower portion. Great exposure, bomber rock.
With Noonan, Dad Sherman & Geo the Dude.
A fantastic experience! great rock in a Wicked setting!
Look for the cave under a boulder in the flats as a bivy before the lower saddle.
Enjoyed climbing with Bill from Iowa- Bill where are you now?
Turned into a bit of an epic helping out this father and son team from Salt Lake. Nice people but well ...
Also recommend are Irene's arete and Valhalla couloir.
I love Tetons! : ) oh and the Tetons too...
A very fine climb ... enjoyed it very much.
We was a party of three. One of us, Klaus, have made his first summit above 4000 m. Great mountain to do that.
Many thanks to Mike and Jeff for helping us out. We weren't exactly lost, but not doing too hot either. The bellycrawl is fun no matter how much experience you have. Ice in the chimney kept that more interesting as well. One of the finest summits ever. Not too pointy, but Idaho and Wyoming are so flat, the mountain so high.
Saw Exum ridge from the summit of Middle Teton a few years back. Must do it.
Finally reached the summit with friend Bruce D after being weathered off on several previous attemps (all in September of different years). I will probably remember this climb for the rest of my life. Everything came together: The weather was beautiful, and thanks to a somewhat late start from the lower saddle, we had the summit all to ourselves!
Could this be the best route in the world?? Ok, was my first route in the tetons and is still unmatched. Black face and yellow face are two of the best bck to back pitches in the US.
Also, Exum car to car in a day 1999.
We started about 12:45 on a friday night. We reached the glacier just as it started to get light. Despite having strap on crampons that came off 3-4 times we made it up the small glacier. Luckily a portion of the snow had collapsed next to the rock face allowing us access to the rock without having to jump the moat. We had a scare when one of my partners on the first lead of the day took a grounder from about 20ft up back down to us on the snow. Luckily he wasn't hurt. After switching leaders we proceeded without problems. That is if you don't count all the off route mistakes we made. It took us almost 4 hours to navigate up to the first ledge. Luckily the next two ledges came quickly. The rock was usually poor, the route hard to find, and some places dirty and wet, and I think these were good conditions for the climb. After getting through the pendulum pitch we couldn't decide where exactly the "V" was that led to the summit. We ended up traversing right to the N ridge and summiting on it just as the sun was going down on Saturday (about 8:30). We descended the owen/spalding route out. From car to car in 26 hours! A great climbing acheivement for me but not exactly an enjoyable climb the whole way. Having done this climb though, I feel a strange kind of connection to the early Teton climbers and the sense of adventure that they encountered on those rocks.
Skip what some call the first pitch of Lower Exum by ascending ramp to "second pitch" in book Teton Classics. Lower Exum is solid 5.7 for six pitches; Upper Exum is mixed, but nothing more difficult than 5.4, to the summit. Rappel down a couple of places.