From the parking lot, hike to the north on a signed trail. Follow the creek NW for about 1/2 mile until reaching a waterfall. Cross the creek to the left just before the waterfall and scramble up a hill. Follow the trail (north) until reaching a house-size boulder. Go right (east) from the boulder and follow the trail until reaching a cave-like formation under a large boulder. Crawl through cave exiting left and the trail will resume on the other side. A faint climbers trail will gradually turn into a scramble for the last 100 ft. Belay from ledge with a tree just below the route. This approach takes 45 min - 1 hr and is about 1.5 miles.
This climb and The Dihedral are fantastic routes for beginning trad leaders. Pitch 1, 5.5: From the belay ledge with the tree, scramble for 30 feet directly up and left to the obvious crack to the left of right-facing dihedral. Follow the crack (5.5) until it almost ends and you are even with the ledge/tree. Traverse right over slabby terrain until reaching the fixed anchors at a belay ledge with a tree. 120 ft. Pitch 2, 5.4: From the ledge, continue following the right-facing dihedral for 30 ft. The dihedral will turn to the left and traverse to two rap anchors after another 40 ft. Rap 200 ft (angling to the rappeler's right) to the base of the route. Do not rap directly down Water Streak or you will end up in the wrong place. Great Expectations: Route #2 (Click photo to enlarge)
Small to medium cams and a set of stoppers. Two 60 meter ropes. A few runners.
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