Martin Cash - Feb 15, 2005 1:44 pm - Voted 10/10
That sucks!Nice series of photos Radek.
I'd like to comment on the ethic you describe in this route. I can't believe some one would actually chop a bunch of footholds and handholds into a route so he could climb it. Otto's ethics are about as bad as they come, in my opinion. That rock, which might be a classic 5.10, was reduced to his level by damaging the rock forever. Chipping is totally unacceptable, especially in the mountains. If he couldn't lead a 5.10 offwidth, then he should have aided it or climbed a different route.
Thanks for the heads up. I will make a mental note never to climb this route.
rpc - Feb 15, 2005 2:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: That sucks!THanks Martin.
Yeah, I know - this is the response I would have as well to this practice but....
Otto did this back in early 1900's. There was no concept of climbing ethics pretty much (little or no concept of rock climbing) and little or no concept of nature preservation. He was also one of the driving forces responsible for formation of the Colorado Nat. Monument. I don't think we should judge this guy too harshly given the circumstances.
Had he done this today, that's a different story...
Martin Cash - Feb 15, 2005 2:32 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: That sucks!Well said. I didn't know the history and his preservation work. Thanks.
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