Infintite Patience

Page Type
British Columbia, Canada, North America
Route Type:
Time Required:
A few days
VI WI5 M5 5.9 2200M

Route Quality: 7 Votes

10212 Hits
75.58% Score
Log in
to vote
Page By:
Infintite Patience
Created On: Dec 19, 2002
Last Edited On: May 21, 2005


Go to Berg Lake and up the Mist Glacier to base.

Route Description

Emperor Face, right side, F.A. Eric Dumerac, Barry Blanchard, Philippe Pellet last October. Basically climb up to the base which is under a prominent gully on the right side of the Emperor Face. Climb steep ice to gain main gully, climb a few mixed pitches and bivy at top left side of gully. Climb several pitches up a narrowing gully to a traverse left and several more moderate mixed pitches. These lead to ice smears that gain the top of the Emperor Ridge and bivy. Climb up and left of the ridge in superb mixed chimneys that gain the summit ridge and then follow ridge past some gargoyles to a prominent ice ledge that traverses W face to Wishbone arrete. Climb across right on this ice traverse ledge directly under summit ridge. The when almost at Wishbome arrete find a steep funnel that leads to the summit in 3 pitches. We bivied on the summit after 20 hours the last day. Descended to Forrester Hut.

Essential Gear

Small rock rack, screws, pins

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-1 of 1

Damien Gildea

Damien Gildea - Apr 26, 2007 7:03 am - Hasn't voted

spelling !

infinite !

Great route, congrats.

Viewing: 1-1 of 1