Not very good snow conditions, but a an interesting exercise for acclimatization. Moraine is endless.
The last couple of days of our vacation we decided to climb Ishinca AND use the Refugio. After a month of cooking outside and sleeping on the floor this was a treat!!
Original plan was to go up the SW ridge and back but as we reached the bergschrund we saw the possibility to quickly skirt down and around to the right. Super glad we did that. A much more technical route that had us popping up a gully just below the summit ridge.
From there is was an easy walk down the NW slopes in perfect weather. Up and down in less than 24 hrs was a bit quick. Next time I'll take the time to explore the many bouldering opportunities along the way.
Climbed via normal route with Jacek R. Great conditions and really nice climb with steep snow finish to the summit. Perfect views! Highly recommended!
Took the left side of the glacier from the Ishinca Lake refuge, which was easily accessed for lack of a difficult moraine (consider that most peaks are rated in difficulty for their glaciers but the moraine in the CB is often much more troublesome!).
The glacier was more or less a walk and without open crevasses (one burgeoning crack) but became a fun 55-60 degree, 35 meter slope on the final push. Perfect acclimation climb on a rare good weather day for such a bad weather season. Views of Ranrapalca.
Easy ascent, beautiful views.
Last summit of a magnificent expedition in Cordillera Blanca.
From NW to SW. Good fun. Rap or down climb the bergschrund--it can be a little exciting!
Up by the SW ridge, down the other side along the NW slopes. Beautiful day, beautiful climb and outstanding views from the summit! I saw at least 9 other climbers on the mountain.
Apart from one very short part, it was an easy climb.
On the SW side there is a tricky bergschrund some 10, 15 m below the summit. There was a partial snow bridge on the right, and another full one on the left. The trail went over the partial bridge, and directly on the other side was a steepish section to the summit. Nót the thing you want on the other side of a tricky bridge ...
I had a look at the snow bridge on the left, but didn´t fancy being the first to test it, and opted for the right hand side instead. I presume that pretty soon, when the bridge on the right crumbles away further, climbers will have to try going left instead.
By the way, I´m glad I didn´t try to do the traverse the other way around, because on the descent from the summit towards the SW it would be very easy to end up in the bergschrund, as I had heard from a climber from another party that had just done that. No harm done, they saw the danger in time and rappelled from the summit, so entering the schrund was only an inconvenience. I didn´t have that luxury, I was soloing. So, while going up the SW route was a bit tricky, descending it alone would be very dangerous indeed.
to a great summit. Only the last part presents any kind of technical issues, and even those aren't too bad - just watch your step. Perfect views of Ranrapalca!
Superb views of several peaks including Huantsan, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Toclla and many more. Nothing technical but need to be acclimatized before attempting it. I went from sea level to its 5550m summitt in less than 3 days and ended summitting at noon. Snow conditions deteriorated rapidly and had to avoid several crevasses and rocks falling on the Northern slopes.
Ishinca valley is a great place to acclimatize - and getting on Ishinca itself is a good primer to Tocllaraju. Very easy climb, no crevasse danger.
A good peak for acclimatization: easy walk up with nice views. Paired it with Ranrapalca. Laguna Ishinca provides nice camping away from the crowds in Quebrada Ishinca. It is possible to make it there in a single push from Pashpa if you are fit.
Acclimatization climb from Quebreda Ishinca. Amazing views on icy giants all around
It was the first time I put crampons on... A beautiful mountain...
Standard route, nice trip with 3 Canadian friends
Reached the summit with fellow Alpine Club of Canada (Montreal section) member Charlotte following our trekking guide Edgar Lalo in perfect weather: sunny and no wind. Ascent was via the Northwest Slopes and the Northeast ridge (PD-) and descent via the Southwest ridge (F). Left base camp (4400m) at 02:00, summited at 08:30. Privilege of our UIAA membership we had no obligation of hiring a mountain guide and opted for a trekking guide to secure the route finding in the night knowing Charlotte had this only one try to bag a mountaineering peak in the Cordillera Blanca.
good to acclimatize on. no need to rope up. climbed from the Ishinca Lake.
Read Eric's below...ps... unassisted. Gorgeous place. 34 miles, 30 hours, 7,500 vertical. Longest rainy walk ever for 1 quickie. Well worth having the summit to ourselves in perfect conditions. Fun to sit on the summit and view where our ride was picking us up 17 miles away in 8 hours.
Tim, Ben and I had a couple of days before leaving the Cordillera Blanca and wanted to go for another summit. We had acclimitized on Vallunaraju and made it to Camp 2 on Huascaran Sur, so we felt strong...
We were dropped off at the Pashpa trailhead and hiked all the way to Refugio Vivaque, near Laguna Ishinca. It took 8 hours to cover the approximatly 14 miles and 5,400 feet. It was a comfortable night in the small refugio as we had it to ourselves (the next day there were about 12 people staying there).
We awoke early the next morning and were hiking by 4:00am and on the summit by 7:15 am. We chose the direct route from the refugio heading directly accross the basin over the spillway to the base of the West face. From the base of the glacier we traversed to the northern saddle and from there onto the summit. It was fairly straight-forward with only a few cravasses and routefinding problems.
From the summit, we had about 17 miles to go to make it back to the trailhead to catch a taxi that was waiting for us until 5:00pm. We descended the 7,000+ vertical feet and all the milage by 4:00pm for a total of a 30 hr. roundtrip climb of Ishinca.
It was a big push requiring a lot of stamina, but the views the whole way up and down were absolutly worth every step!