This was a car shuttle hike with the CMC. We bagan the hike near Alice, where the 4WD portion of the road begins. We hiked up this road to Loch Lomond. Then we ascended Mt. Bancroft's SE Ridge. From there we descended down it's steep north ridge to the narrow ridge and saddle above Ice Lake. from this saddle there is 200-300 feet of steep scrambling before reaching the summit plateau. A half mile stroll reaches the summit of James. It was many years ago, but I would guess that this ridge is rated either Class II+ or maybe even III.
Just after leaving this summit, I had an eerie deja vu sensation...really odd. We descended the east ridge down to St. Mary's Glacier and then to it's parking area below. We rested while other members of the party retrieved the other vehicles.
Really not a bad day considering it is December. Be prepared for wind up on the flats though. Glacier was hard as a rock and we did some crampon practice on the way down. People were trying to ski and snowboard but weren't having much luck.
I'll be doing this in winter again. This is a nice fairly safe mountain to do this time of year.
Easy trail to follow. Be prepared for much cooler temps. and wind on the summit. Summit log was missing.
Wonderful mountain. Beautiful day!
Summited James Peak after climbing Mount Eva, Flora and Bancroft from Berthoud Pass. Caught in a thunder/snow storm on the way up and white-out conditions on the way down. Quite a hike!
finally, on the 4th winter attempt, success. blowing snow spelled failure the other 3 times.
What a day! Felt very out of shape on the way up but had beautiful weather and snow. The plateau was practically snow free! And of course, awesome glissading on the glacier.
Very cold and windy day.
We were practically being blown off the glacier, but the wind
subsided a bit once we were on the turndra above the glacier.
The summit seemed so close from the small rock outcrop
on the flat tundra approach. It was really quite a distance.
Great summit, highly recommended overall, especially in winter.
Some photos Here:
What and awesome day. Despite the high winds, the temps were warm and the sky clear. The views were absolutely amazing. The snow pack was very solid although I measured most slopes to be 25 degrees or less. Jamaica is blown clean except for a thin ice coat. Saw several people in the area.
Carried by mom. Stopped at Rodgers Pass because of bad weather.
Got turned back once in December but I bagged this one with a small group of intrepid CMC hikers today.
Three people had to turn back but the 5 person summit team pushed on through a white out to the summit and navigated back to our snowshoes with common sense, altimeter, and compass.
Nice warm day. The Glacier was tiny, but two guys were still trying to snowboard on it.
Ascended the entire way on snowshoes. I pulled ahead of my friends and reached the top as clouds lowered. I presumed it was the summit because of the outline of the windbreaks under the snow. It felt like a summit, but I couldn't see too far. Fortunately I had shot a compass bearing to get back across Jamaica Flats, and I caught up with my friends there. Great day!
Been up this one twice, the first time was training for Rainier and the second was training for Orizaba. St. Mary's is a good place to get used to the crampons again and get comfortable being roped together.
It was cloudy when we summitted, but the clouds broke as we crossed back over the Jamaica flats on our return. Nice day out there, but too many ATVs! A trip report is available here.
Snow, hail, and rain up high. My 15 month old son, Kessler and wife Kimberly waited down at Rodgers Pass for me to summit.
I have climbed from this route in winter maybe 6 or 7 times but what viewers of this page should note is the potential treacherousness of the flat area from the glacier to the mountain base (for some reason it is called "Jamaica"). I got caught in a white-out on the way back on this trip and spent hours wandering around as it was getting dark, going down wrong gullys, and finally by trial and error found the top of St. Mary's. I was more mad at myself than scared, but it could have been nasty ( and cold). Always bring a compass and take your readings. Retreat at the first sign of weather. I suppose it would not be a nice place to be caught during an electrical storm, either!
Great hike along the Continental Divide. Easy, relatively level hike up to Rogers Pass. The guidebook I had consulted for this hike said that there was no trail going up to James Peak, only bouldering. I was surprised to find a well defined trail cut by shovels complete with switchbacks and red flag markers on the northeast side of the peak. On top by 8:05am.
Weather conditions were perfect (clear skies, 60s, virtually no wind, no threatening clouds) so I decided to go on across to Bancroft (13,250) and then to Parry Peak (13,391). I radioed back to my family at their house in Fraser that I was doing this. If I had realized that I was already halfway to Berthoud Pass, I would have continued on to there. Instead, I turned around and came back across Bancroft and James Peaks.
There was no log book on top of Parry Peak. There was a log book on top of James but no pen or pencil to sign it with! I did sign the log book on Bancroft.
This mountain is a very good conditioning mountain and would be a great snowshoe in the winter.
James has some great views and we were able to see the Flattops Wilderness.
This was a great trip for me, I had never seen St, Mary's Glacier before, it was great to see people skiing and snowboarding in Sept. The tundra crossing was great. Could see how it would be treacherous in a snow storm, easy to lose your way. James Peak summit was cold and windy this day so we didn't stay long.