Kaiserweg (Schaufels)

Overview

The "Kaiserweg" at the Schaufels/Donautal is known as the longest non-alpine climb of germany. First climbed by the german climbers Günter Notdurft and Walter Seeger (see the "historic pictures" section of the main page) this route is still one of the highlights of climbing at the Donautal.

The routes winds up at the highest and steepest part of the Schaufels. To avoid the big overhanging areas of that part of the rock the route is using two traverses, known as "kleiner und grosser Quergang" (small and big traverse). The small traverse is the the crux of the route (rated 7) and the traverses are the place for many "second-climber-of-a-partie-epics" ... ;-)

One of the big things of the route is the big exposure. Because of the two and big traverses one climbs for much time over big overhangs. This gives a feeling like a bird without beeing a bird.

Approach

From Hausen im Tal (see main page) follow the main road direction Sigmaringen. One will see the big face of the Schaufels just after leaving Hausen im Tal. There is a parking area below the Schaufles close at a railway crossing at the right side of the road (very obvious). From the parking area a climbers path starts (signs of the IG Klettern/DAV). Follow this path to the base of the Schaufels.

Route Description

The route was an aid route further. Meanwhile it is rebolted but it is still possible to aid it (just pull the bolts). For those going to climb the route freely this has the advantage of a very well protection. The Kaiserweg is rated 7 or 5+/A1 (US: 5.11.a or 5.9/A1).

Overall there are 5 pitches to climb:

Pitch 1: Start at the base of the rocks face about 15 m left of a yellow dihedral. Follow the bolts up to the first belay. The rock quality of this first pitch is not very good. The pitch is rated 6+.
Pitch 2: The crux of the route with the "samll traverse", rated 7. From the belay climb up four bolts then bend off left to start the small traverse (4 other bolts). The climb directly up to a belay at a small, grassy ledge.
Pitch 3: This is a short one: climb up to a samll inlet (4 bolts), then continue left hands to a belay at the top of a small tower.
Pitch 4: This is the famous big traverse ("Grosser Quergang"), rated 7-. Climb the traverse for a a full pitch following the bolts. Finally one reaches the base of a small dehidral. Climb up about 5m to the next belay.
Pitch 5: Follow the dehidral up to the top (6+).

Essential Gear

12 clippers, stopper, rope, helmet, some non-climbing shoes for the descent

Descent

Use the Schaufels rappel : at the top of the rock (equal to the rim of the Donautal) there is a trail. Follow this trail right hand until one reaches a metal railing. Still follow the trail to a nearby second railing. At the enf of this second railing a small path bends right to a bolt which is the start of three rappels bringing one down to the base of the Schaufels.

First Ascent

Günter Notdurft, Walter Seeger 1955

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

View Kaiserweg (Schaufels) Image Gallery - 3 Images