Kindergarten Couloir

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Ice Climb/ Neve Climb
Time Required:
A long day
Alpine Ice 1

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Kindergarten Couloir
Created On: Sep 19, 2005
Last Edited On: Sep 19, 2005


Follow the Checkered Demon page directions to the McGee Creek trailhead and go cross country south to the South Fork of McGee Creek. Follow McGee Creek (west) until you are below the North face of the Checkered Demon and the huge moraine between it and the Southeast Face of Mount Humphreys. Kindergarten Couloir is the couloir on the left (east) as you face the Checkered Demon.

Route Description

This is best done as an ice or hard neve climb when Sierra ice forms in fall. The Kindergarten Couloir is the left couloir on the North Face of the Checkered Demon. This couloir is a wide 35 to 40+/- degree 1000 to 1200 ft ice or neve climb with (I would imagine) conditions varying greatly depending on snow and temperature trends. Both couloirs on the Checkered Demon are known for rock fall. The low quality of rock becomes immediately apparent as soon as you get close enought to see it. Debris can be seen littering the snow and ice at the base of the north face and in the couloirs. Miguel Forjan and Rob Yang both commented that this couloir is very similar in angle and difficulty to the Dana Couloir.

Essential Gear

Ice tools, crampons, and helmet. Cords and slings for anchors. We did not use any rock pro as the quality of rock is questionable but not impossible. We brought a total of 8 ice screws of varying lengths and quick draws. Your favorite alpine rope.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Kindergarten Couloir

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