Klein Matterhorn

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.93268°N / 7.77512°E
Additional Information GPX File: Download GPX » View Route on Map
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: F+
Sign the Climber's Log


Breithorn passBreithorn pass

The shortest and normal route to climb is from the cable way of Klein Matterhorn.

Slope to gain: 500m, but with 150m of descent from plateau Breithon
Time: 3h to summit.

Getting There

In South of Swizerland, you can drive to Tasch. The access is forbiden and you must take the train to the village of Zermatt.

Timetable Schwarzsee paradise

Route Description

Roccia Nera / SchwarzfluhNormal route

Normal route to Roccia NeraRamp S.W.
Roccia Nera / SchwarzfluhRamp S.W.

We walk following the towers to the entry of plateau on left side. We follow initially the same route to the main summit of Breithorn (4165m) to reach a point called Breithorn pass (3824m) at west of the Breithron's col (the col between the two western peaks). We descend on right side (S.E.) following generally the footpath of the signs of skiers (in occassions with wood stakes with paint) in direction of Pollux. We cross under the spun south of Breithorn central descending to a small plateau under our summit. We leave the route of Pollux turning to left in the ramp S.W. of Roccia Nera. After a great bottom of soft snow we reach the central section of 45ยบ. The last meters has some ice generally before the west shoulder. We walk now near of rocky ridge to the summit.

Essential Gear

Ramp S.W.

Rope and harness. One or two ice-screw. Crampons. One of two ice-axes.
It's possible the use of ski until the bottom of the ramp S.W.

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