L'Isola di Nagual

Overview

The Pala delle Lastiele is a shoulder that closes to the North the long and well-known strip of slabs that has the name of Parete Zebrata. Pala delle Lastiele is a wall that doesn't particularly stand out when compared to other majestic summits of Sarca Valley, as the impressive and towering walls of Monte Brento and Cima alle Coste. Also the adjacent Parete Zebrata to the left is more flashy. However it has a significant interest its vertical and inviting South wall, where we find some high-class climbs, amongst which the most famous and frequently climbed and also less demanding is the superclassic "L'Isola di Nagual". 

Getting There

From the Rovereto Sud / Lago di Garda Nord exit of the A22 Autobrennero motorway reach Nago and Arco di Trento. At the first roundabout before entering Arco, head towards Dro and Trento and pass the little toiwn of Dro. Just before entering the Pietramurata hamlet, along the road you will find a parking lot located near the entrance of a fish farm on the right (about 30 km. from Rovereto Sud exit).

Route Description

L'Isola di Nagual route report - UIAA SCALE

Difficulty: UIAA VI+
Climbing length: 250 m
Equipment: pegs at belays are on site, as well as some pegs along the pitches, needed quick protections to integrate 
Exposure: South
First ascent: Fabio Stedile and Fabio Giacomelli 1982

The route takes place along a beautiful system of dihedrals with very aesthetic climbing, one of the most beautiful in the Sarca valley. Traditional pegs. All the belays are equipped. 

Approach to the crag

From the parking lot cross the road and take a forest road (closed by a bar a few meters further). Follow it up to a big junction with a forest road. Keep right. After a few hundred meters it comes off on the left a track that gradually becomes a path. Take this track (a few cairns) in the direction of the obvious large dihedral formed between the Parete Zebrata slabs to the left and the same Pala delle Lastiele to the right. Skirt the base of the wall to the right slightly downhill to find the starting point of the various routes. The first route on the left is Diedro dei Predoni. Pass the start of the route "Baci di Carta" and reach a slanting right dihedral. Start of the route.

Route report

L1 - Climb the dihedral up to the belay under a large yellow overhang. IV, III, 20 m

L2 - traverse to the left to a reddish dihedral with many pegs, climb it (A0) and then at the top take some compact gray slabs on the left (possibility of intermediate stop on an hourglass with cordon). Continue until a pine, shortly after a peg. Cross over the pine for a few more meters and then climb easier steps up to the stop. A0, V, VI or V+ and A0, 30 m

L3 - Climb the gray dihedral on the right. At its end, traverse to the left to the belay, IV, V+, III, 25 m.

L4 - Climb the yellow dihedral up to the roof, which is avoided on the left. Traverse to the left on the slab to reach an open dihedral which you follow up to the belay, V+, VI, V, 25 m.

L5 - Follow the dihedral up to the next belay, V, V+, 15 m

L6 - Always along the dihedral up to the hanging belay a couple of meters to the right, V+, 30 m

L7 - Re-enter the dihedral, overhanging at the start,  and follow it until the belay, A0, V+, V, 20 m

L8 - Always along the dihedral up to the roof that closes it. Here traverse to the right up to the comfortable terrace, IV, V+, 20 m

L9-L10 - Continue with two lengths of rope, without an obligatory path, first going around a corner and then climbing the various steps and broken rocks, heading to the right and thus exiting into the summit wood. II, III, IV, 100 m.

Descent: follow an uncertain track along the wood (sometimes difficult to identify), then head right (North) in the direction of the Dain (Pian della Paia) wall (visible to the North) until you reach the forest road. Follow the forest-road paying attention to the red-white stamps cutting the hairpins with shortcuts. Once you have reached the cross-track and the adjacent Hotel Ciclamino, you will return to the fish farming via the provincial road (2 hours).

Essential Gear

There are no restrictions in climbing, hiking, biking and other open air sport activities.

Red Tape

There are no restrictions in climbing, hiking, biking and other open air sport activities.

When to climb

The mild climate allows to climb all year round in the Sarca Valley, however to climb this route located on a warm South face it is advisable to avoid the summer period.

Where to stay

This area is a primary touristic destination, offering several hotels, agriturismo, bed and breakfast, renting rooms and apartments in Arco, Dro, Pietramurata and Ceniga. Campings in Arco and Pietramurata.

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO
DOLOMITI METEO - TRENTINO

Guidebooks

- Guidebooks

“Pareti del Sarca” by Diego Filippi – Edizioni Versante Sud "Arco Pareti" by Diego Filippi - Edizioni Versante Sud 2020

- Maps

“Valle del Sarca” – Map 1.25.000 - Edizioni Meridiani Montagne

External links

Useful informations here:

DRO TOURISM
GARDA TRENTINO INFORMATIONS