Climbed this route August 8 - 13, 1999 with Em Holland. V 5.9 A3
Gotta love the scree slog.
Climbed with Mike Zimmerman from campsite at Grass Lake
Great break in for sierra peaks.
Did the north ridge in a grueling day. Snow was not an issue as the route was in great condition. It was cold in the shade but marvelous in the sun. One of the best days I have had in the mountains.
If you want some full on alpine action here is your route. Climbed this with Scotty Nelson (poorboy44). Never had my fingers freeze together before trying to climb rock. Ended getting benighted on the sandy legdes and finished it off the next day. Cool ice climbing at the top of the couloir!
This big chute above Grass Lake is a horrible scree slog. Didn't mind it too much going down except that members of my party would lose control sometimes and slide. After getting up the chute, we should have avoided traveling on the ridge to get to the peak. Could have traversed lower down and then up to the peak.
Warm-up for McAdie. Really ugly scree slope. Pictures
Decent snow conditions but loose rock above the snow. Minor rockfall danger (due to snow melting) - one did come down a long way. Some false summits near the top. Climbed with Andrew (sierramtngoat) and Mammen and Truman.
climbed the N. ridge w/ Brian from UCLA; roped up for two pitches and soloed the remainder. afterward began the traverse to Peak 3985m.
Camp was cold the night before (18 deg. F in our tent) so the snow condition was perfect for cramponning. There was some rock fall from the cliffs to the right of the chute. The upper chute had melted out so we stuck to the left and had little trouble with scree. At the plateau, we traversed NE around a few false summits and climbed a chute that would lead to the true summit. No summit register could be found.
Summited via the North Ridge. Morning was beautiful but after 2-3 hours of climbing conditions turned to whiteout. Last 5-6 pitches were complicated by 2-3 inches of snow plastering the rock. Mid 5th class is definitely harder with a 20 pound pack, mountaineering boots and fresh snow. Otherwise awesome route.
Lot of scree on this route. Summit is pretty cool.
One of the best winter routes I've ever done.
From Tuttle Creek with a bivvy below the plateau. A perfect day on top!
Solo ascent of the North Ridge. My first high Sierra summit.
I soloed the North Ridge over Labor Day weekend 2005, carrying a light but not ultralight pack (about 17 pounds with bivy gear and full-water capacity). The approach from Whitney Portal is cruisy and gaining the Ridge is, for the most part, unproblematic. Had I intended to do this car-to-car in a day, I would make a point to get an alpine start; the route seemed much longer than its grade (Grade III) suggests.
Two pieces of beta: (1) I would carry about 3 liters of water per person, assuming a car-to-car effort, and leave the stove behind; also, be judicious about consuming those three liters; (2) I screwed up the descent route and ended up downclimbing fourth- and fifth-class cliffs; be sure to go pretty far off the summit plateau to the southwest before taking a hard right.
Great climb though.
Mike Ybarra and I climbed the route via Meysan Lake drainage on the way to the Whitney or Meysan Basin traverse. We carried full packs with bivy gear and LOTS of water. Due to lack of acclimitization and knowledge of the route, we took nearly 11 hours to reach the summit from the trailhead. Supposedly this was not too bad since we were the only party (out of three) to reach the summit that day. Two other parties settled for a forced/unprepared bivy somewhere on the ridge (!?). We stayed as true to the ridge proper as possible and did encounter some ~5.7 terrain. Belayed for a couple of short pitches and solo'd the rest. Spent a windy but beautiful night on the summit!!
Climbed this with Brian Decker. Climbed the left side of the first 1/2 of the summit headwall, a much better alternative to the route Secor describes. Brought a rope but never used it. Thankfully, the forecast thunderstorms never materialized. Burgers and beer at WPS was the highlight of the day.