Longs Peak Climber's Log

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DaveC

DaveC - May 21, 2004 9:06 pm

Route Climbed: cornhole route Date Climbed: july 99  Sucess!

with manny from the boulderfield campground. being up early avoided a little of the herd, but it's a popular one.

sbkelley

sbkelley - May 12, 2004 3:39 pm

Route Climbed: Loft Date Climbed: September 2003  Sucess!

I've actually climbed both the Keyhole and the Loft and must say that the Loft was much nicer. Less crowded, a little shorter, a lot more fun. Going right underneath the Palisades was quite a treat, too.

tysonwormus

tysonwormus - May 9, 2004 1:31 pm

Route Climbed: Keiners Route Date Climbed: May 8 2004  Sucess!

Quite an amazing climb. Beautiful route, splendid day and a pleasantly deserted summit.

Chris

Chris - May 8, 2004 8:41 pm

Route Climbed: Kiener's, Keyhole, North Face Date Climbed: July 1994, May 1997, August 2002  Sucess!

This is an amazing mountain. There is a route to suit (almost) every ability and taste here. Highly recommended!

georgbetsy

georgbetsy - May 4, 2004 10:37 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole/Loft Date Climbed: July 2003  Sucess!

After trying to climb Longs in late June (2003) and turning around before the trough due to very icy conditions and the lack of crampons and an ice-axe, we were finally able to reach the summit on this beautiful day.



My wife and I started at 12:30am at the Longs Peak trailhead and reached the Boulderfield by 5am. Since my wife felt a little altitude sick and it was freezing cold, we waited till 8:00am to continue up to the summit which we reached at about 9:30. (There was a large number of climbers on the route.)



Next we proceeded by descending the Loft route and got some questioning looks from the other climbers. (Unfortunatelly we were too tired to also climb Meeker!!). On this route we were the only climbers and some necessary routefinding added to the challenge of the route.



-- Maybe next time we try the Longs Peak Grand Slam as described by Gerry Roach (anyone interested?)

Larry V

Larry V - Apr 23, 2004 1:19 pm

Route Climbed: Loft Route Date Climbed: September 1998  Sucess!

Started in the wee hours to reach Chasm Lake in time for the sunrise. Finished by the Loft Route. Have reached Longs' summit twice, but was turned back another time by unexpected cold and snow.

hgrapid

hgrapid - Apr 18, 2004 11:13 am

Route Climbed: Clarks Arrow Route Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!

This summit log is long overdue. I went alone, got to the trailhead at 3:45am. Hiked the wrong way, and met up with an adventurous climber from Michigan. We climbed the class 3 slope up to the ridge. I climbed the pinnacle right across from the Longs summit, noticed where I was, and scurried down to the ridge in 10 minutes. My new buddy was down there. We decided to move on, down 1,000 feet to the Clark's Arrow, and 2,000 feet up the class 3 slope towards the homestretch. I loved this hike. I made it to the summit even though I screwed up the route. As soon as I got in my car, a violent and thunderous hailstorm cracked. I was lucky to get out of there dry.

f360driver

f360driver - Apr 14, 2004 6:47 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: 9/03

I have yet to do this route without seeing an 18yr old girl in sweat pants climbing it too. Please, 18yr old girl, make it a skirt next time!

rmuir

rmuir - Apr 13, 2004 1:56 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Route Date Climbed: July 18, 1996  Sucess!

A nice hike with a little scrambling at the top. I want to go back and do the cable route!

coloradoiceclimber

coloradoiceclimber - Apr 10, 2004 2:53 pm

Route Climbed: Lambs Slide to Kieners Date Climbed: June 1 - June 2, 2003

Two great sunrises for the price of one!! See the TR by Jason. Longs Peak was my first true mountain climbing experience in May of '99. I was in Colorado for the summer and linked up with a couple of guys who were willing to throw an axe in my hand and give me a crash course on walking w/crampons and how to self arrest. A spring ascent of Longs Peak via the Keyhole Route was a wild way to jump into the world of mountaineering! Since the first climb I have climbed Longs several times including full moon climbs. RMNP and Longs are truly an amazing place! I also climbed the Keyhole Ridge route with Jason and Chris on my 30th birthday. That makes six trips to the summit!

Kimberly

Kimberly - Apr 5, 2004 4:44 pm

Route Climbed: The Keyhole Date Climbed: September 2001  Sucess!

I climbed it while pregnant to prepare for crossing the Himalaya Mountains when I was five months pregnant.

Erik Beeler

Erik Beeler - Apr 1, 2004 10:38 am

Route Climbed: Key Hole Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2003  Sucess!

See my trip report.

Pencil Pusher

Pencil Pusher - Mar 27, 2004 3:19 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: 1993  Sucess!

Nice summit day, but I sure didn't like that traverse before the final scramble to the summit. Man I tell you I was darned ready to grab any fool that nudged me while on that thing. It was difficult passing with all the traffic going back and forth. The summit is huge and flat like a football field.

Nice thing about Colorado, all the peaks I hiked up were done in jeans and cotton. :)

Grant

Grant - Feb 25, 2004 9:19 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: July 20, 2003  Sucess!

Started at 3:30 and it was pretty uneventful up to the Keyhole although once past the 12,200 foot pass (I can’t remember what’s called) it was very scenic when Longs Peak and the Keyhole came into view. Past the Keyhole is where the fun started the entire route was marked with bullets painted on the rocks. The trail was pretty easy until we hit the Trough, up the trough there was snow on the right side of it and rocks on the left. At first we jumped out on the snow and went up a couple hundred feet then climbed up the rocks a few hundred feet then back on the snow the finally back on the rocks. The rock in the Trough was pretty loose and there was one little section getting out of the Trough to what is called the Narrows that was a little tricky. The foot holds were small and slick and with the soles of my boots being wet the first couple steps were a little tricky.



Once out of the Narrows we went up the Homestretch. The rock in this area was very solid with lots of hand and foot holds but after going through a thousand feet of class III climbing I was getting pretty tired. Rod was moving quickly though this section and I was just taking my time. Rod waited about five minutes on top for me and we headed over to the boulder on the top that was the summit (9:20).

Sock Monkey

Sock Monkey - Dec 28, 2003 6:07 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August 7, 2003  Sucess!

Long day of climbing with beautiful weather and great company!

Day Hiker

Day Hiker - Dec 28, 2003 12:50 am

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: 07 August 2003  Sucess!

I think it thunderstorms here every afternoon during monsoon season. It's not like the southern Sierras, where you can sometimes go a week or more without rain. I got nailed by thunderstorms and hail the last two times I hiked this mountain, and yep, I got it again this time. Maybe I should set my alarm clock, so I can start hiking early, like the smart people.

deadrock

deadrock - Dec 26, 2003 9:32 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Route Date Climbed: December 24, 2003  Sucess!

This was one of the epic mountains I've climbed. The weather was perfect, it meandered around 20 degrees F and the 0 degree mark at night. I made a camp near the frozen Columbine Falls where it blew spindrift into my vestible both nights. I woke up on the 24th at around 7:00 am and headed towards Chasm Lake. I then hiked up to the summit of Mount Lady Washington to a beautiful view. From here my goal was the Keyhole. The snow was fairly shallow with ice precariously formed on most of the rocks. I had to be very careful with each step. I was especially concerned with the black ice underneath the snow. Several times I managed to find this without wanting to. I made it up to the last traverse at around 1:00 pm and decided to keep going. It was very difficult to do so because of the intermintent snow/ice that seemed to drain every bit of energy from me. In a few choice sections, I was concerned that I didn't have a rope to repel after my climb. However this didn't stop me and I figured that I was taking calculated risks. After one particular area, I descended to make sure it was possible. I finally made it to the summit at around 2:00 pm. I was rewarded with an incredible view of the surrounding mountains which made for a very memorable Christmas. I made it down safely and enjoyed an evening meal of chicken with noodles and wonderful cup of hot chocolate. As I headed out the next day (Christmas) I could see the clouds developing over the summit very rapidly and knew that I had just made it. I look forward to coming back soon.

chasej

chasej - Dec 22, 2003 1:09 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Route Date Climbed: July 1, 2003  Sucess!

Climbed the route with my dad after first talking about it 22 years ago. Route was still in winter conditions with the Trough completely filled in. We were the only people camping at the Boulderfield. Perfect setting...highly recommended!

desainme

desainme - Dec 19, 2003 6:56 pm

Route Climbed: Keyhole Date Climbed: August 75 and 76  Sucess!

Was intrigued by Jon Bradford's tale. On one of my climbs one of our party got a big headache at the homestretch and quit. I think its just a couple of hundred feet up from there to the two acre corn field. Too bad. I enjoyed seeing the west face above the trough. Nobody ever writes about these cracks on the west face :-(

JonBradford

JonBradford - Dec 18, 2003 7:37 pm

Route Climbed: The Keyhole Date Climbed: June 24, 2002  Sucess!

Longs stands out as one of the scariest climbs I have been on. I got off route on the narrows and ascended the south-west side of the summit block; via some parallel cracks that were easy at first but ice filled later on. At one point an exposed dynamo was required to pull myself above a polished smooth granite slab. Before this the sewing machine legs was making me seriously reconsider my routefinding skills. I would guess the cracks were only 5.2 or so but at the time they tested me. I arrived on the flat summit drenched in sweat and utterly elated. The most exciting wrong turn I have ever made. The Homestrech was quite tame in comparesin (but agin raised the question what was I thinking to leave a bullseye painted route to head straight up a set of parrallel cracks above the south side cliffs). Great mountain but a little overly popular for my tastes.

Jon

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