Page Type: Trip Report
Date Climbed/Hiked: Jul 4, 2009
Activities: Big Wall
Season: Summer

Early May 2009

Dihedral WallP5 Dihedral Wall Bivy
Lurking FearP1
Lurking FearP11
Lurking FearApproach to LF
East Buttress (MCR)El Cap: LF on left skyline
Lurking FearP3
Lurking FearP10

So once again there we were a day’s worth of climbing (our slow pace) up El Capitan hanging from two closely spaced belay bolts struggling to set up our Metolius double portaledge in an increasing deluge running from above. What started as a gentle drip from the 6th pitch roof just above us on Dihedral Wall was now turning into a steady waterfall and we were in its path. While struggling to establish camp, the (unarmed) shit-tube went sailing down into the void (I’m a retard) – thankfully there was no one below as evening was approaching. The waterfall persisted onto our fly for most of the night. Predictably enough, morning saw us doing the bailing routine. At the base we had the pleasure of meeting Craig and Carolyn who were starting up their Dihedral Wall climb. We chatted a bit and then tucked tail and fled Yosemite for the safety of an easy Zion trade route.

What went wrong? I could conveniently say that it was the soaking we got on our first night…but if I dug deep, I would call it bullshit. Frankly we simply could not wrap our minds around the task ahead: the c. 20 remaining pitches, the hanging belays, the hauling, the unyielding steepness…

Early July 2009

Lurking FearP1
Lurking FearP2
Lurking FearP4
Lurking FearP6
Lurking FearP7
Lurking FearP10
Lurking FearP11
Lurking FearP12
Lurking FearP8
Lurking FearP12
Lurking FearP12
Lurking FearP14
Lurking FearP17
Lurking FearP18
Lurking FearP7
Lurking FearLong Way Down
Lurking FearP3
Lurking FearP17

With an extended 4th of July weekend and a pair of Alaska Air tickets to Sacramento, we spent a better part of the preceding Sunday trying to squeeze our grade VI loads into the allotted luggage quota. Following a late night flight from Portland, Wednesday morning saw us waking up late and having breakfast in Oakdale (day 1 plans being short and all). By 11 am, we were hiking along the base of El Cap headed for the start of Lurking Fear (free topo). Our lunch time running regimen from the last 2 months seemed to be paying off as we huffed and cursed a bit less than usual while weighted down by a pig and gear. As expected, the sight of El Cap towering above shook my determination. Nevertheless, after humping the loads up the 4th class step (it was warm) we started up pitch 1. The “direct” bolted variation went as untarnished aid with the help of top-stepping and a couple trivial hook moves. Pitch 2 offered more of the same including the “C1 hooking” while the 3rd was a nice C1 crack to a penji. Though we brought a portaledge, our plan was to bivy in spots that offered at least a hint of an edge for the feet to assist in setting up camp. With that in mind, we called it a day on the nice ledge atop pitch 3 and dug into our supply of bagels and canned dolmas. Rest of the evening was spent watching forest fires somewhere above the Rostrum and sucking down smoke - a trend that would continue for the rest of the climb. I had a restless night due to the fact that I’m too long for the portaledge and Shirley had a restless night due to my restless night. Oh well – day 2 was going to be a pretty short one too.

For breakfast, pitch 4 offered some more easy hooking above good bolts leading to an easy crack system that eventually petered out atop pitch 6. Pitch 7 was mostly a direct traverse on bolts (all with hangers) and a couple hooks. While messing with the belay atop P7, I accidentally airmailed the pulley – a big wall gumby that I am (also see the aforementioned “I’m a retard” comment). Fortunately, a spare was riding along with us. Pitch 8 was a beautiful splitter granite crack that I could totally see myself hang-dogging all over and cursing (wide) had it been at a local crag. As it was where it was, it went at C1 on three #4 Camalots. For those sifting through this bs for beta, I think I placed a #3 Camalot at the very top but can't be sure now. One more crack pitch and we arrived at our planned bivy spot #2: The Pillar Of Despair. Though it would have indeed been a tough night without the canvas, The Pillar offers a fine spot for setting up a portaledge. I think it was here that we knew we would not be giving up on this climb. Not that we were relaxed but our determination was high. Once again, we both had a restless night. During my intermittent bouts with sleep, I would have this recurring dream that we were already nearing the top of the route…then I’d wake up in the breaking dawn and realize we haven’t yet moved at all. I was also worried that we were going through our water too quickly (did I mention it was warm?).

Day 3 started with pitch 10 which I thought offered some of the thinnest aid thus far…again, noting too stressful as a bomber piece was always close by. Following the traverse of pitch 12, the nature of the climb did indeed change. The angle kicked down a bit and most belays offered at least a sloping ramp for the feet. Though I did not examine “Ned’s Mantel” option, the “better way” on pitch 14 was interesting with the bigwall rack and just as interesting for the 2nd. The pitch ended on a series of good ledges (“Ned’s Ledges”) that were just too good to pass up especially given that it was 4:30pm. We decided to fix pitch 15, which I thought was the crux of the route. A few creative placements (including the tiniest tricam) were required and the most in & out of the aiders maneuvers.

Not having made Thanksgiving Ledge the day prior, we got up an hour earlier on day 4 and jugged to our high point . Pitch 16 offered some strenuous aid and 17 landed us on Thanksgiving Ledge. There we found a stash of water jugs. We used about 2 liters worth to refill our nalgenes & took the empty bottle with us. This turned out not to be needed as we had 2 liters left when we got down. I was worried for nothing. After a quick ferrying of the loads across the big ledge, we quickly dispatched the last 2 pitches shown on topos. Somewhere here, Shirley made the comment that she could smell the summit. Someone did not take kindly to this burst of optimism, and the final ~500 feet proved to be the physical crux of the route. The routine was to fix a rope and then Shirley would carry the rack and the haul line while I dragged the pig and portaledge...about 3 repeats of this exercise were required. Finally, we hit the unroping point and shuttled our pile to the top.

Quick summit photos, kisses and it was time to descend. We (foolishly) opted for the hike vs. the east ledges raps as it was about 6pm and we’ve never done the latter. After a mile of hiking, as the trail entered the forest we were engulfed in black clouds of mosquitoes. These would keep us company for the next 3 or 4 miles until just below the Lost Arrow turn-off. It was nothing short of fucked up -- couldn't stop despite the heavy loads and couldn't really spend the energy trying to swat the buzzing fuckers even off of our faces and out of our ears. We finally arrived in Camp 4 exhausted from our battle with the loads and the flying beasts. While I hiked 20 minutes to get our car, Shirley sat at the table in Camp 4 next to our gear and wrapped herself in a sleeping bag. This is a big no-no as she was interrogated in depth by 2 separate park rangers…apparently sitting at a picnic table wrapped in a sleeping bag next to a pile of climbing gear can be considered as illegal camping. Oh well.

I finally picked up Shirley and gear and we drove to just outside the park gate where we slept undisturbed on the side of the road till about 3am when severe hunger woke us up. A big Denny’s breakfast at 5am in Oakdale was followed by a day of resting and further pigging out in Sacramento while waiting for our Monday morning flight home. A good long weekend.

PS I read this cool TR not too long before our trip up LF...enjoyed it & could relate to much of what the author mentioned!

Summit

Lurking FearHappy Tired






Comments

Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-20 of 30
12
darinchadwick

darinchadwick - Jul 7, 2009 2:36 am - Voted 10/10

Finally

..you've done a Yosemite big wall. I've been wondering when this would happen, you've been more than ready for quite awhile now. Congrats on the big leagues! Wonder what's next!?!?!

rpc

rpc - Jul 7, 2009 2:58 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Finally

Darin - thank you for the overly kind words of confidence ...would love to try something longer there...fail/succeed ratio is pretty high for us there though :)

Marcsoltan

Marcsoltan - Jul 7, 2009 9:24 am - Voted 10/10

Love...

your TR Radek, and congrats on your great climb. I had to laugh and was saddened, at the same time, by what happened to Shirley at Camp 4, with the park rangers. They used to always get on my case even a hundred years ago.
I knew you guys must have been up to something big!
Happy climbing,
Marc

rpc

rpc - Jul 7, 2009 11:37 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Love...

Marc - thank you so much for the kind words. The ranger thing.....given what the valley looks like (mid-town Manhattan at rush hour), guess I should be more understanding of the tight rules (but of course we felt they were hassling the wrong people in our case :)
thank you for visiting!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Jul 7, 2009 11:32 am - Voted 10/10

excellent

slide show Radek...only problem I have is that looks like real work man....going to go finish off those bon-bons now and flip on a soap

rpc

rpc - Jul 7, 2009 12:44 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: excellent

heheheh - thank you Dow....yeah, it felt worse than the construction jobs I had back in HS!!

Deltaoperator17

Deltaoperator17 - Jul 7, 2009 1:44 pm - Voted 10/10

Awesome

Great TR Radek and Shirley!

rpc

rpc - Jul 7, 2009 2:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Awesome

Thank you very much Steve!
Cheers!

rpc

rpc - Jul 7, 2009 2:29 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Good Job !

Hi Craig - thank you very much for the kind word. This thing was comfy up until about 1pm and then once the full on sun began...pretty hot (occassional breeze up higher helped a lot though). Oh man -- no idea what next....seems like we really worked hard on this gumbiest of gumby El Cap routes...we have a long way to go. I can say for sure though it won't be Dihedral Wall :) ...my feet & back are still recalling those hanging belays. I just can't imagine doing that for ~25 pitches.
Best regards to both you guys! cheers.

Dragger

Dragger - Jul 7, 2009 9:48 pm - Voted 10/10

WOOO HOOO!

Yea!! so happy for you and Shirley, Radek! Wow, I can't believe the rangers harassed poor Shirley at C4. And the mosquitos! Yikes! Sounds like you guys had a great trip up the Captain. Congratulations again!!!!!

rpc

rpc - Jul 8, 2009 12:26 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: WOOO HOOO!

Hi Carolyn -- thank you very much for the nice word ...we squeeked by :)

mvs

mvs - Jul 8, 2009 9:39 am - Voted 10/10

amazing

Looks like an incredible experience. Love the summit photo!

rpc

rpc - Jul 8, 2009 12:27 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: amazing

thank you very much Michael - incredible experience it was for us...now, 3 days later I can finally say it was fun :)

mvs

mvs - Jul 8, 2009 12:45 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: amazing

I can't believe your fingers didn't have too much aluminum oxide to type so soon after the trip!

rpc

rpc - Jul 8, 2009 12:49 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: amazing

hahhahahah :)
...we finished with one vacation day left which was largely spent soaking in a shower (yet I still smell the wall on myself...disturbing!)

lcarreau

lcarreau - Jul 8, 2009 4:19 pm - Voted 10/10

Not to open a can of worms,

but wouldn't it had been best to do it later in the year?

The last two times I visited Yosemite, I was greeted by Rangers
both times. First, the smiling Ranger asked me why I was going
over the posted speed limit of 45 mph.

Second, a female Ranger on a horse asked me why I was hiking the
Cathedral Peak trail while storm clouds were gathering in the
distance.

I came to the conclusion that Big Brother was watching, so I
high-tailed it to the much "cooler" parts of Idaho and Utah.

Seems to me those ****! Rangers should provide a more convenient
spot for Rock Climbers to spend the night in the Valley, without
having to pay an arm & a leg and loose sleep over something
petty.

I thought these Parks were supposed to belong to ALL of us, for
crying out loud. GREAT you found a peaceful location to snooze!!!

rpc

rpc - Jul 8, 2009 5:15 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Not to open a can of worms,

Larry,
"but wouldn't it had been best to do it later in the year?" it's a question of putting up with crowding on a route vs. heat...we chose the latter.
As for the strict park rules, I can partly see where they're coming from ....Yos. Valley is one f..ed up place on a summer wknd....before the camping rules can be relaxed, I'd imagine that the population density of CA needs to be "relaxed" first

TJ311

TJ311 - Jul 9, 2009 3:00 pm - Voted 10/10

Congrats

On your climb! Loved all the pictures!!

rpc

rpc - Jul 9, 2009 5:05 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Congrats

thank you very much for the nice word!

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jul 9, 2009 5:45 pm - Voted 10/10

Nice job

on your climb! Enjoyed the trip report. I've tried Aid Climbing a few times, man it just seams like all work and no fun. Standing in aiders all day just didn't excite me very much. Anyways, glad you guys has a good time and nice pics!

Viewing: 1-20 of 30
12