Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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37.73420°N / 119.6367°W |
Elevation:
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7569 ft / 2307 m |
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Overview
El Capitan is perhaps the most sublime feature in all of Yosemite Valley, and second only to Half Dome among Yosemite's most recognized features. Modern big wall climbing began in the late 1950's and was developed into a fine art on its faces in the 1960's as climbers from all over the world have come to challenge its demanding routes. Called simply El Cap or The Captain, this immense granite wall rises 3,300 feet from the talus slopes to the Valley rim above.
Over 70 big wall routes have been established on El Cap's Southwest and Southeast faces, though most of these are variations connecting two or more of the earlier established routes. At any given time from spring to fall, there are dozens of climbers making their way up one the established routes. Ascents have been made in as less as 2 hours and as long as 200 days, but the average party takes 4-6 days to make their way up, hauling 100 lbs of gear, food, and water for each member. Down below, tourists, friends, and loved ones park along Northside Drive and picnic in El Capitan Meadow while watching the climbers' progress through binoculars.
The low elevation and excellent weather make El Cap a great training for more difficult climbs elsewhere in the world. In fact it is the heat and dehydration that threaten the climber more than bad weather. Water makes up nearly a third of the weight that climbers carry in their haul bags (or "pigs", as they are less-than-affectionately called).
You do not have to be a rock climber to reach El Cap's summit. Several class 1 trails will take you to the summit on a long dayhike, and there are more adventurous scrambling routes as well.
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Getting There
You can't miss it. Drive to Yosemite Valley and you will see the massive walls on the north side, not far from the SR140/41 junction. Drive on the south side of the road until you see a sign pointing left for park exits. This will take you to Northside Drive and El Capitan Meadow. You can park on the side of the road for as long as you like. If you are heading to Camp 4, continue on Southside Drive until the left turn for Yosemite Village. Camp 4 is a short distance west of Yosemite Lodge. Many maps still refer to Camp 4 by its previous name, Sunnyside Campground. For much more info on where to stay, how to get to Yosemite Valley, etc, check out: Yosemite Valley LC, courtesy the awesome work of mpbro
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Red Tape
There are no permits or use fees required to climb El Cap, other than the standard park entrance fee. Bivies on the walls around Yosemite Valley do not require a Wilderness Permit.
When To Climb
Climbing can be done year-round, but the big walls are most often climbed Spring-Fall. Summer months can be exceedingly hot on those south-facing walls! Hikers attempting to reach the summit via the Yosemite Falls Trail in winter will find the trail closed about a few miles from the trailhead due to avalanche dangers.
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Camping
Camping is allowed at the base only in designated campgrounds (Camp 4 is the closest), fees apply. Overnight stays enroute on the walls are not restricted or subject to permits. You can likewise camp at the summit without need for permit, though this is at the discretion of the rangers. Climbers are generally not expected to have permits for overnight stays on the summit, but hikers coming from the trail are. Fires are allowed (but discouraged) at the summit.
Camping info/reservations
For those looking for better (and pricier) accomodations, YCS runs all the Yosemite Lodging facilities. Everything from tent cabins in Curry Village to the 4-star Ahwahnee Hotel.
Mountain Conditions
Yosemite Climbing Link - info on permits, closures, safety, rescue, and good climbing/wilderness practices
Current road and weather conditions
Etymology
The name was given by the Mariposa Battalion in 1851. "The native Indian name ... is To-to-kon oo-lah, the Sandhill Crane, a chief of the First People. (C. Hart Merriam in SCB 10, no. 2, Jan 1917: 206.)
"The famous cliff, El Capitan, is a Spanish interpretation of the Indian name To-tock-ah-noo-lah, meaning the 'Rock Chief.'" (Bunnell, Report, 1889-90: 9.) "Upon one occasion I asked [Tenaya], 'Why do you call the cliff Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?' The Indian's reply was, 'Because he looks like one. Come with me and see.' ... As the Indian reached a point a little above and some distance out from the cliff, he triumphantly pointed to the perfect image of a man's head and face, with side whiskers, and with an expression of the sturdy English type, and asked, 'Does he not look like Tote-ack-ah-noo-la?' The 'Rock Chief,' or 'Captain,' was again Sandino's [the interpreter's] interpretation of the word while viewing the likeness." (Bunnell, Discovery, 1911: 214-15.)
There is also a legendary explanation that is repeated throughout Yosemite literature. Galen Clark said that Tul-tok-a-nu-la is from the measuring worm (tul-tok-a-na) which crawled up the face of the rock to rescue two small boys who were beyond being saved by any other creatures of the valley. (Clark, 92-95.)
According to one source, the original English name was "Crane Mountain," not for the reason given above but for the sandhill cranes that entered the valley by flying over the top of El Capitan. (YNN 34, no. 1, Jan 1955: 6.) And finally, Hutchings' Illustrated 1, no. 1, July 1856:3, called it "Giant Tower."
- Peter Browning, Yosemite Place Names
Big Wall Routes Overview
This table is not meant to contain all routes established on El Cap, but to give a flavor for what is available. The information is compiled from a variety of sources, and the ratings given are not consistent between source - so do more research before selecting a route! Those routes marked with an asterik (*) denote the five popular trade routes on El Cap.
| West Face | ||
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| Routes | Difficulty | FA |
| Reach for the Sky | 5.11, A4 | 1989 Jim Beyer |
| West Face | 5.11c | 1967 Herbert, Robbins |
| Mr. Midwest | 5.10, A3+ | 1985 Russell, McDonald |
| Realm of the Flying Monkey | 5.10a, A3 | 1985 Bosque, McDevitt |
| Mirage | 5.9, A4 | 1976 Bridwell, Schmitz, Pettigrew |
| Lost World | 5.10, A3+ | 1975 Folsom, Anderson, Warburton |
| Squeeze Play | 5.10, A3+ | 1982 Corbett, Edmondson, Albuschkat |
| Hole World | 5.10, A4 | 1990 Eric Kohl |
| Southwest Face | ||
| Routes | Difficulty | FA |
| *Lurking Fear | 5.13b (or 5.10, A3) | 1976 Bircheff,Pettigrew |
| West Buttress | 5.10, A3 | 1963 Kor, Roper |
| For Your Eyes Only (aka Octopussy) | 5.9, A3) | 1988 Dan and Sue McDevitt |
| Timbauktu Left | 5.10, A3 | 1988 Franco Perlotto |
| Never Never Land | 5.9, A4 | 1978 Hawkins, Chapman |
| Aquarian Wall | 5.9, A4 | 1971 Bridwell, Schmitz |
| Winds of Change | 5.10, A35 | 1991 Jensen |
| Wings of Steel | 5.10+, A34 | 1981 Jensen, Smith |
| Horse Chute | 5.9, A3 | 1974 Porter, Burton |
| Horse Play | 5.9, A3 | 1984 Grossman, Harrington |
| Dihedral Wall | 5.9, A3 | 1962 Cooper, Baldwin, Denny |
| Cosmos | 5.9, A4 | 1972 Jim Dunn |
| Excalibur | 5.13a, A4- | 1975 Porter, Burton |
| Bermuda Dunes | 5.11c, A4+ | 1984 Schneider, Barbella |
| The Heart Route | 5.9, A4 | 1970 Kroger, Davis |
| Pacemaker | 5.9, A4 | 1982 Bosque, Corbett, Barnett, Siler |
| Verano Magico | 1985 Gallego, Gallego | |
| Son of Heart (aka Heart Woute) | 5.10, A3+ | 1971 Sylvester, Wreford-Brown |
| Sunkist | 5.9, A4 | 1978 Price, Bard |
| Jolly Roger | 5.10, A5 | 1979 Cole, Grossman |
| Magic Mushroom | 5.10, A4 | 1972 Burton, Sutton |
| *The Shield | 5.9, A3+ | 1972 Porter, Bocarde |
| Dorn Direct | 5.9, A4 | 1977 Yaniro, Olevsky |
| False Shield | 1984 Charles Cole | |
| Turning Point | 1984 Steve Grossman | |
| Muir Wall | 5.10, A3 | 1965 Chouinard,Herbert |
| Salathe Wall | 5.13b (or 5.11,A3) | 1961 Robbins,Pratt,Frost |
| Triple Direct | 5.9,A2 | 1969 Bridwell, Schmitz |
| Meditterraneo | 1981 Gallego x 4 | |
| Grape Race | 5.9, A4 | 1974 Porter, Johnson |
| The Nose | 5.13b (or 5.11,A2) | 1958 Harding,Merry,Whitmore |
| Southeast Face | ||
| Routes | Difficulty | FA |
| The Central Scrutinizer | 5.11c, A4+ | 1988 Grossman, Ladin |
| The Real Nose | 5.10, A4 | 1984 Cole, Grossman |
| The Reticent Wall | 5.9,A5 | Gerberding,Stowe |
| Tribal Rite | 1978 Carter, Bard | |
| Genesis | 5.11b, A4+ | 1989 Englekirk, Brand |
| New Dawn | 5.9, A4 | 1972 Chouinard, Pratt, Hennek, Jones |
| *Mescalito | 5.9, A4 | 1973 Porter,Sutton,Burton,Nelson |
| Hockey Night in Canada | 5.10, A3 | 1980 Beckham, Flavelle, Lane |
| Space | 5.10, A4+ | 1985 Charles Cole |
| South Seas | 5.8, A4+ | 1979 Price, Row, Thompson |
| Pacific Ocean Wall | 5.9, A4 | 1975 Bridwell,Westbay,Fiske,East |
| Ring of Fire | 5.10+, A5 | 1995 Jensen,Smith |
| Sea of Dreams | 5.9, A5 | 1978 Bridwell,Bard,Diegelman |
| North American Wall | 5.8, A3 | 1964 Robbins, Frost, Pratt, Chouinard |
| Wyoming Sheep Ranch | 5.9, A5+ | 1984 Slater,Barbella |
| Heartland | 5.10, A4 | 1987 Barbella, Brand |
| New Jersey Turnpike | 5.10, A4+ | 1977 Hawkins, Kauk, Bard, Burton |
| Gulf Stream | 5.9, A4 | 1993 Gerberding,Harpole,Smith |
| Atlantic Ocean Wall | 5.10, A5 | 1986 Middendorf, Barbella |
| Iron Hawk | 5.9, A4 | 1978 Bard, Kauk |
| Native Son | 5.9, A4+ | 1987 Shipley, Johnson |
| Scorched Earth | 5.11, A5 | 1987 Leavitt, Slater |
| Aurora | 5.8, A5 | 1981 Mayfield, Child |
| *Tangerine Trip | 5.9, A3+ | 1973 Porter,St. Croix |
| Virginia | 5.7, A3 | 1992 Clance, Bosque |
| Lost in America | 5.9, A5 | 1985 Child, Leavitt |
| Zenyatta Mondatta | 5.7, A5 | 1981 Bridwell, Mayfield, Row |
| The Shortest Straw | 5.10, A3+ | 1990 Rick Lovelace |
| *Zodiac | 5.11, A3+ | 1972 Charlie Porter |
| Surgeon General | 5.9, A5 | 1990 Kohl, Shipley |
| Lunar Eclipse | 5.10, A4 | 1982 Barbella, Schneider |
| Born Under a Bad Sign | 5.10, A5 | 1979 Price, Washick |
| Plastic Surgery Disaster | 5.8, A4+ | 1991 Eric Khol |
| Bad Seed | 5.9, A4+ | 1988 Russell, Johnson |
| Bad to the Bone | 5.9, A4 | 1984 Smith, Painkiher |
| Eagle's Way | 5.10, A4 | 1976 Chapman, Graham, Orey |
| On the Waterfront | 5.9, A5 | 1986 Bosque, Corbett, Schneider |
| High Plains Dripper | 5.11, A5 | 1989 Kohl, Humphrey |
| Pressure Cooker | 5.10, A4 | 1990 Eric Kohl |
| Get Whacked | 5.10, A5 | 1992 Eric Kohl |
| Waterfall Route | 5.10, A4 | 1975 Teske, Polk |
| Chinese Water Torture | 5.11, A4 | 1981 McConachie, Smith |
| Snake | 1983 Franek, Walace | |
| East Buttress | 5.10b | 1953 Steck,Siri,Long,Unsoeld |
| The East Ledges Descent | A0 | |
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External Links
- El Cap's First ascent
Warren Harding and his changing crew spent 18 months putting up the first route on The Nose in 1958 - AFB Highsights '96
Hans Florine leads blind climber Erik Weihenmayer to the top of El Cap in 1996 - Route Beta
Courtesy rockclimbing.com and Dr. Piton - Gerry Bloch
81-yr old climbs El Cap via Aquarian Wall - John Middendorf's Big Wall site
For those interested in learning about Modern Big Wall climbing - Hans Florine's Web Page
Not a lot of meat here, but it gives you the flavor of Hans, speed climber extraordinaire - Warren Harding Obituary
From the Sacramento Bee. Harding, the first person to scale El Cap, died Feb 27, 2002 of liver failure at age 77 - Scrambling El Cap Gully and Eagle Creek - May 17, 2002
- Reticent route pictures
14 Routes
Corax - Sep 29, 2005 10:15 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentFreerider
alex_vega - Apr 23, 2006 7:47 pm - Voted 10/10
Hi Bob!Alpinist Tomaz Humar from Slovenija as first noAmerican solo climbs one heaviest direction in the world "Reticient Wall" in El Capitan VI.,5.9,A5 in fifteen days! Cheers,Alex