Macadamia, 5.9, 130m

Page Type
Route
Location:
Alberta, Canada, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.9 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
4

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Macadamia, 5.9, 130m
Created On: Jul 17, 2007
Last Edited On: Jul 17, 2007

Overview

Macadamia is the classic rock climb in the area. Most of the climbing is sustained 5.7/5.8 and the final crux pitch is absolutely memorable - the reason to do the route.

Getting There

Once at the base of East Planters Wall, look for the huge overhanging roof/arch at the top of the wall, with a left facing corner underneath it - this is the final pitch. The climb starts a bit left of that, on a wide ledge - look for a bolt and a ramp that goes right.

Route Description

The first three pitches are nothing amazing, and the only reason to do this route is the amazing fourth pitch. All of the climbing is sustained at about 5.7-5.8, with the occasional harder crux. However, all the pitches have some quality to them, just watch the loose rock in places and make sure you stay on route.
Macadamia route betaRoute beta

Pitch 1 - 50m 5.8. Head up to the first bolt and angle up and right, following a natural ramp. Belay from a ledge with two bolts. There is an alternative to this pitch which goes mostly straight up from the base to where the belay is. This alternative is supposed to be the same difficulty and protects entirely on gear.

Pitch 2 - 35m 5.9. Move right from the belay on a ledge/flake and climb an overhang (crux, piton for protection). Afterwards, follow a corner to the right, until it ends. From there, make a difficult move left (second crux, bolt for protection) and go up to a large ledge and bolt belay.

Pitch 3 - 30m 5.8. Do not go up the corner straight above (dangerous loose blocks) - instead, traverse right on the ledge a few metres to the base of the next corner (yellow rock). Climb the corner until it is necessary to make a tricky move left to gain a ledge (some small gear in the corner, and a piton through the traverse). From there, a short bit of straightforward climbing leads to a bolt belay at the base of the final corner.
Crux cornerCrux corner

Pitch 4 - 25m 5.9. Climb the corner (sustained, large gear necessary). At the base of the overhanging arch, clip a piton and either stem across it making it easy (requires long legs) or do an overhanging move to swing right and over the roof. Belay from two pitons driven in the compact rock at the top.

To descend, there are several possible rappel routes:
- Rappel "The Nut Man" by traversing 10-15 meters climber's right after topping out. It will require two full 55-60 meter rappels.
- If you have a single 60 meter rope, or there is a party on The Nut Man, walk left 20 meters instead to the "Macadamia rappel route". Four 30-meter rappels will bring you to the ground from there.
If in doubt or you don't want to rappel, there is a way to walk off right (south).

Essential Gear

Full set of cams, small to 4" (a #3 camalot and #4 friend provide good protection for the crux corner). Some fixed gear exists. Double ropes are recommended due to the traversing nature of several pitches. The route is doable with a single 60 meter rope, but retreat would be difficult.

External Links







Macadamia, 5.9, 130m

Route
8 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Nearby Routes Interactive Map Routes in Canada

Parents

Ghost Rock ClimbsRoutes
 
East Planters WallRoutes