Martinswand

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Bayern, Germany, Europe
County:
Forchheim
Activities:
Sport Climbing
Season:
Summer, Fall
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Martinswand
Created On: Jul 3, 2009
Last Edited On: Jul 3, 2009

Overview

Martinswand

Martinswand is an impressive high wall of 40 m. It is one of the highest walls in Frankenjura.
It is at a North side so it is perfect in summer when it is hot. But after rain some parts of the wall are long wet.
The rock belongs to “Zone 2”: That means that it is not allowed to create new routes.

The rock has several roofs, is vertical and at some parts overhanging and so there are no easy routes.
There are also some beautiful crack routes.
The very difficult routes have many bolts, the medium routes less bolts so you should have some nuts or friends.

There is a left and a right part of this impressive rock. Some route names are written at the rock so you will find the right one.

Getting there

Drive to Gößweinstein. From the Basilica in Gößweinstein at the main street to the west (direction Morschreuth, Sachsenmühle).
After ca. 100 m (before a petrol station) right into the street “An der Martinswand”. Please park as it is allowed as there were problems with the residents because of irregular parking.
Alternatively you can park at a big parking place 100 m before the street “An der Martinswand” (costs 2 Euro for a car the whole day).

Then follow the street “An der Martinswand” till its end. Then the woods begin and after some metres there is a sign “Naturschutzgebiet”. From there a trail runs to the left where you reach the Untere Gößweinsteiner Wände. Right of them there is Martinswand.
Time: about 5 minutes.

Route overview

Left area:

1. Flotter Dreier 7+
2. Winston G(C)roovy 8
3. Superpfund 9-
4. 1001 -Pfund-Weg (Hans Teufel Gedenkweg) 7+
5. Andi´s Freuden 8-
6. (?)
7. Den süßen Mädchen 8-
8. Süßspeise 7+


Right area:


1. Tausendpfundweg 6+
2. Tausendpfundweg - Ausstiegsvariante 6+
3. Fernfahrer 8-
4. Martinsritt 6-/A3
5. Apokalyptische Reiter 9
6. Weg der Jugend 5/A2
7. Verbindungsvariante 6-/A2
8. Schwarzer Riß 7
9. Flow 8+
10. Der große Wahnsinn 9/9+
11. (?) 9-
12. Projekt
13. Movie de luxe 7
14. Gemsenweg 6+
15. Gonda-Wyss-Gedenkweg 7-
16. Gonda-Wyss-Gedenkweg - Direktausstieg 5+
17. Nordwestkante 6-
18. Bergseite 4
19. Nordwestkante 6-

Me at the second bolt of Nordwestkante

Accomodation

There are a lot of cheap guest houses in and around Gößweinstein.
Wild camping is not allowed.
There are also camping areas around Gößweinstein.

External Links

Topo here:
Left part Martinswand

Right part Martinswand