Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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53.08330°N / 4.2167°W |
Route Type:
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Traditional Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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V Diff |
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Approach
From the Laby besides the North Ridge
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Route Description
Milestone Buttress is a 400ft Difficult climb with two starts, the Overhang start and the ‘Crack Start’. This gives the first problem if two parties start the climb at the same time, hence a blockage at the first stance. The overhang can be surmounted by bridging tactics or by a couple of moves on small toeholds, but once over, it’s easier climbing to the belay ledge. The route then follows spikes, grooves and smooth walls to a splendid hand traverse under a great block called the Bivalve. The Bivalve is probably the most enjoyable pitch of the whole route and the crux being the escape from it. The final sting is the last pitch, up a chimney, polished by the upward thrutching of thousands of tweeds and Polartec fleeces. The chimney is awkward to start and it has been known for some climbers to seek help in getting established. I found the easiest way to made upward progress is to back and front the chimney untill large hold appear near the top
Essential Gear
Full Rack of Hexs and wires and a few slings
Miscellaneous Info
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