Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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53.08330°N / 4.2167°W |
Route Type:
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Scramble |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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UK Grade 2 Scramble |
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Approach
Tryfan is situated on the A5 between Capel Curig and Betheda. There is plenty of roadside parking and for this route you need to be as close as you can to GR SH67395 60542. From the main road take the path to the farm Gwern Gof Uchaf and onto the path passing to the right of Tryfan Bach. Look up and seek out the Heather Terrace line running across the face of Tryfan, this is your first goal. Ascend beyond Tryfan Bach to a fence and follow it to your right as if you were bisecting Tryfan’s North Ridge. Look for a scree gully which you should ascend towards the beginnings of the Heather Terrace. This is not so easy and I’ve faffed around many times taking different lines on each trip.
Once on the Heather Terrace follow it to the first water course, cross it, and continue to the first proper gully. This is Bastow Gully, so go past it to the next gully which is steeper and with many more jammed boulders.
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Route Description
This is a relatively easy scramble amongst some great mountain scenery. The route is in 4-5 stages attempting as much as possible to stay OUT of Nor Nor Gully.
Begin by ascending a quartz slab on your left from the bottom of the gully then continue up a fairly wide heather area until you reach the rock crags. Now turn right and enter the gully for a few steps to a fork left to ascend the break in the gully side. Once completed, enter the gully again (I know, I know, I said stay out of it as much as you can!) scrambling up and over an awkward step to gain the North Ridge at the prominent notch.
Either descend by the North Ridge or continue to Tryfan’s summit by the same ridge.
DO NOT attempt to continue over and down the other side unless you want an epic as described in a related trip report.
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Essential Gear
This is an easier route than Bastow Gully Variant but I would still recommend a rope, some slings, a belay device, a couple of carabiners, harness, possibly a couple of extenders. A lot of this depends on the ability of the second and what protection they feel they need.
Clothing should be as for a typical British mountain day (wet weather gear!) and decent mountain boots or approach shoes. Personally I always wear B2’s for this sort of stuff, good practice for the Alps.
Miscellaneous Info
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