Mittaghorn Climber's Log

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Tugrul - Jul 13, 2021 3:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2021

NW Ridge

The day before I climbed this route, there was 30 cm or so of new snow. As all the lifts were closed, my approach was longer than anticipated, taking 3 hours to come up from Saas-fee to the start of the via ferata.

My aim was to clip in to the via ferata and free climb all the moves. Progress up the ridge was impeded by the wet snow caused by the hotter temperatures of the day. I managed to "free" all the moves until the technical crux of the via ferata which is around a 100 m below the summit. At this point, both due to personal weakness and the wetness of the rock, I started to cablejug.

I reached the summit 3 hours after the start of the ridge, taking around 1hr 30 minutes longer than guidebook time. The descent down was steep, making itself even more treacherous with the wet snow on top.


MikeLJ - Apr 17, 2019 12:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2012

Steep but with a great view  Sucess!

We took the steep path up and down accompanied by friendly Ibex!


boriskrielen - Feb 9, 2018 1:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2013

Via Ferrata (2x)  Sucess!

Been there twice (02-09-2013, 04-09-2010). The via ferrata is a nice route for acclimatising and enjoying the views.


il.rocciatore - Mar 12, 2016 3:30 am

Route Climbed: Normal Route / SSW Ridge Date Climbed : september 2004 / july 2005  Sucess!

2004: After a failed attempt to walk the normal route earlier in july in bad weather conditions, I managed to make it to the summit in september. Superb views form the summit.

2005: Arrived around 7 o'clock in the evening on the summit after making the traverse from Egginer to Mittaghorn. It was a big achievement for me at the time. Luckily I was already familiar with the descent. Back on our camp site at 11 o'clock in the evening.


mountainmanjohn - Sep 15, 2013 8:10 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2013

Good easy Ferrata  Sucess!

Great scramble up an airy yet simple ridge. No need for the Via Ferrata on some of it. Good easy climb. climbed with Hamish


telemarkdude - Oct 10, 2012 2:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 1989

Foggy Day  Sucess!

Stopped off to climb this on our way to the Britannia Hut for an ascent of Allalinhorn the next day. We started up the not so interesting east flank and were caught in dense fog on the upper part. We traversed over to a ridge and scrambled up rock to the summit.


marc123 - Sep 18, 2012 5:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2011

Nice klettersteig  Sucess!

Nice climb on the klettersteig on the north side of the mountain.


markhallam - Jul 19, 2011 12:56 am Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2009

Via NW ridge Klettersteig  Sucess!

Climbed as an acclimatisation exercise before tackling 4000ers - the NW ridge + klettersteig is a delightful little scramble in its own right and the top of the Mittaghorn a superb view point.


gert - Sep 6, 2010 5:01 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2010

East side  Sucess!

Together with my wife - beautiful day!


Koen - Jul 22, 2010 5:00 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010

NW ridge  Sucess!

Training climb. Arrived at the start of the climb without knowing there would be a via ferrata. Too bad this nice ridge is desecrated in this way...


Simnel - Mar 3, 2010 1:40 pm

done solo  Sucess!

via the via ferrata.

Peter K

Peter K - Aug 19, 2009 4:17 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009

Route Climbed: NW ridge via ferrata  Sucess!

Leading an alpine club youth group (JDAV).
Our rest day while collecting some easier 4000ers. Nice via ferrata!


JanVanGenk - Jul 17, 2008 9:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2008

Route climbed: via ferrata NW ridge  Sucess!

Easy via ferrata, climbed it as a warm-up for a week in Saas-Fee/Zermatt area.


riven - Dec 17, 2007 5:41 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2007

Via Ferrata, fun and easy  Sucess!

Nice little rest day activity between 4000m peaks. Via ferrata lanyards can be hired very cheaply from the intersport in Saas Fee or Saas Grund.

J Fox

J Fox - Jun 26, 2007 11:50 am Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2005

A inadvertent First Ascent?  Sucess!

My wife and I had intended to take the walkers route to the summit but we didn't walk far enough along the Brittania hut trail to find the turnoff to the summit path. Instead we ended up doing a class 2 scramble up the north east flank. Not your traditional way up the moutain but quite an invigorating scramble. The summit has amazing views of the Mischable Wall.

andre hangaard

andre hangaard - Aug 27, 2005 8:19 am

Route Climbed: NW ridge.The kletter stieg Date Climbed: 16 Aug 2005  Sucess!

Nice and fun climb up the new kletterstieg. Some fresh snow on top. Icy ropes.

andre hangaard

andre hangaard - Aug 29, 2004 5:52 am

Route Climbed: East flank Date Climbed: 19 Aug 2004  Sucess!

Warm up for my yearly Saas-week. Cloudy and windy.

Very nice view over Mischabel and Allalin.


Eelconl - Feb 21, 2004 8:42 am

Route Climbed: East Flank Date Climbed: Summer 2003  Sucess!

Terrible route. I never do this one again!!!!

Probemeister - Nov 12, 2003 6:52 am

Route Climbed: Nw ridge, descent via the East flank Date Climbed: July 03  Sucess!

This was our warm up route in our 1 week Saastal adventure. A bit cloudy and quite cool with some ice on the rocks towards the top.

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Sep 7, 2002 3:02 pm

Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: August 27, 2002  Sucess!

Reached the summit in about 4 hours from Saas Fee, with a few pitches of nice climbing just below the summit. Signed the register on top and descended by the East Flank to the Plattjen cable car. The weather had been poor for several days in Zermatt, so we were very glad to be out climbing.

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