Mittlellegi from the NE

Mittlellegi from the NE

Eiger from the NE. (Mönch on left deliberately faded). The approximate line of the approach (a fixed way) to the Ostegg Hut and the route (D, 7 to 8 hours, with rock to V) to the Mittlellegi Hut are shown in red. The Mittellegi Ridge Route follows the ridge crest from the Mittellegi Hut to the summit except for one detour with fixed ropes onto the north side (shown in red). Photo in fixed ropes
Photo (July 2001) and graphics by Fred Spicker
Fred Spicker
on Nov 10, 2003 7:12 am
Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing
Image ID: 32752


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Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - May 22, 2006 12:46 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Hello

Difficulty on the ridge proper is up to UIAA IV (about 5.6). But can be complicated considerably by conditions – you should not take it on unless you are confident climbing at this grade on iced rock wearing mountain boots and crampons.

This site claims that there is some rock up to 5.7 on the approach to the hut from the south. I do not remember this, but perhaps the glacier has receded enough to require more difficult climbing to exit.

Guide Site

The approach showing on the photo here is two days and includes climbing to UIAA V.

See here for a good description of UIAA grading:

Handy Alpine Facts

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