Mittellegi Ridge

Page Type
Route
Location:
Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
icy rock
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
4

Route Quality: 19 Votes

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Mittellegi Ridge
Created On: Sep 14, 2001
Last Edited On: Jun 1, 2002

Approach


The new Mittellegi hut (3355 m, 28 places, Info: ++41 (0) 33 853 52 00) can be reached from the underground railway station Eismeer (3159 m) of the Jungfraubahn. Climb down the ladder and over some rocks to the Fiescher glacier. Turn left, cross some crevasses and reach Kallifirn (small glacier). At ca. 3200 m cross the bergschrund at the spur below the Grosse Turm and walk easily along the flank to the hut that is located right on the ridge and can be seen from far. 2.5 hours.

There are 2 other and rarely used approaches that are much longer: from Grindelwald (Unterer Grindelwaldgletscher) and
from Alpiglen.

Route Description


First climbed in 1921 on Sept. 10th at the request of the Japanese Yuko Maki (who visited Grindelwald some years ago) with some Grindelwald guides and porters, among them Samuel Brawand, a school teacher of Grindelwald (who taught German to Yuko Maki) and Swiss politician, who died recently over 100 years of age. Yoko Maki financed a large amount of the first hut.

The climb is probably one of the most scenic: to the right the green valley of Grindelwald, to the left the icy landscape of the
4000 m peaks. The climb follows first almost always along the ridge, made of lime stone. Difficult passages are equipped with fixed ropes. After the largest gendarme (Grosser Turm 3692 m) the climber is forced to the north flank, which is sometimes icy. The last half an hour is an extremely scenic snow ridge. 4 hours if the ridge is dry.

The most scenic ridge that I ever climbed. Do not climb if the weather is not stable. It can change within minutes!

See also the Trip Report

Essential Gear


Rope, crampons, ice axe. You must be a well trained rock and ice climber.






Mittellegi Ridge

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