Went from Aiguille du Midi cable car. Had a beautiful day and practically had the mountain to ourselves. There were a couple of challenging sections when crossing some crevasses, but otherwise a gentle climb. The summit is truly beautiful with breathtaking views.
Climbed several times, a classical training peak, but mind crevasses.
got altitude sickness on the shoulder (4100), always acclimatize !
Normal route from Aiguille du Midi.Two hours and 45 mins.to get to the top in a perfect July monrning.
Summit reached in excellent conditions late evening, bivi on ridge conditions deteriorated next morning
Easy route from Aig du Midi
Deep snow and avalanche risks. Great but short weather window.
due to bad weather (thunderstorm) only normal route (Jul.1995)
We were on a schedule to go to Grand Combin, but a car accident drove us back and we couldn´t reach Panossiere-hut the day it was planned. We changed our plan short in time and drove over to Chamonix and took the first cable car to Ag. du Midi the next morning. Then we forced our bodies up to Mont Blanc du Tacul without acclimatisation. What a torture. It was very cold that day and we didn´t make it back in time to the cable car, so we had to sleep one night in Ref. Cosmique before returning next morning after.
Great panorama for mountaineering. Easy access because of cable car.
Normal route, from Aiguille du Midi.
Easy route good for acclimatization and training.
Set out late from the Cosmiques hut (9 o'clock in the morning) to tool around on the ice and decided on a whim to take advantage of the good weather and climb the normal route. Cold and clear all morning. Gorgeous views of Mt Blanc and Chamonix below.
Climbed to summit on the way way up MB. Would like to climb the Supercouloir one day.
Easy and no to long route. Beauty 4000-peak. (nice vives on the Mont Blanc Group and nort face Mont Maudit)
Not exactly sure what we climbed. Perhaps Contamine Mazeud. We soloed up neve/ice past the shrund and climbed under some seracs before crossing right to a rock band, then more ice, more rock and finally a great mixed pitch up to the high snowfield on the shoulder and thence the slog to the summit. Climbed with Silvio. Lots of fun.
Climbed the pillar, by a lot of harder variations. It took us 24 (!) hours without a break.
See also my website here.
No wind, dry and very hot. I need 3 hours from Rifuge de Cosmiques.
After a very noisy night due to people leaving the hut at almost every hour at night, or due to people who were having altitude sickness, we finally left the Cosmique hut at 8.00 o'clock in the morning in good weather and snow conditions. It was quite cold (-10c) but blue sky and 40 cm of fresh snow (it snowed the night before) and that in the beginning of June!! We skinned up to the Tacul in less than 2 hours and than we skied down all the way from 4.200m via the Valle Blanche to the ladders below the Mer de Glace Train station. The conditions on lower parts of the Mer de Glace were not so good anymore (only ice) but it was a great way of coming down the Tacul in June!
People who were trying to climb the Mont Blanc de Tacul on crampons were having a very hard time because they were often until their middle in the snow and there were no tracks yet....
Skis highly recommended... some people with crampons only were having a tough go at the many powdery bits especially. We were having a blast at the powdery bits especially.)
See trip report.
Hazy skies, fine good enough. Good snow making for good skiing. Good friends. Good mountain views. What more can you ask for?
Quite enjoyable climb and great snow to ski on the way down, but this seems to me a quite objectively dangerous route. There is serac fall danger nearly from the start to finish. The terrain is perfect for avalanche danger at 25-35 degrees. Although it didn't seem very dangerous considering the angle, even a small slide would could be deadly as you are constantly traversing above angry ice falls (terrain traps).
All in all not a route I'd recommend, although aside from the two dangers mentioned, no technical difficulties and just sails right up. Good skiing potential!